I am a million, million miles from being an expert, so I'm not sure I should say anything... Apologies to the kiltmakers.

It's just that I cut the pleats out of the fell area on my Stillwater wool kilt, along with putting in the steeking, and pleated hair canvas. It really is a huge difference in feel from having all the fabric around the back: "pillow butt." Much cooler in the summer, as well.

The Still watter I have is close to being eight yards, though.
The pleating wasn't perfect to begin with, and I think there is still one pleat I need to work on if I ever get back to it.