Two DIY tweed kilt jacket conversions

**IRISH** · 16th December 11, 07:10 AM

what cat?

**theborderer** · 16th December 11, 07:38 AM

I find the length of the jackets OK, but find they are better worn open. I am, however, more worried about the "low slung" sporran strap at the back and "Garfield" certainly looks very worried.

**Tim Little** · 16th December 11, 08:11 AM

Personally I'd be more worried about Garfield's claws.

**MT4Runner** · 16th December 11, 08:18 AM

Thanks for the feedback, gents. I'll hike up the sporran belt a bit, theborderer!

Cat sporrans:
http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...porrans-70492/

I think I've got some before/progress photos I need to upload of those.

**MacLowlife** · 16th December 11, 12:52 PM

On the one with the patch pockets, can you remove them entirely? The flaps seem to be at an OK height, but the pickets spoil the effect. You may be able to make a (bound) slit and have a pocket under the flaps. Otherwise, I would go with flaps and no pockets. You can also make a bucket style cuff from the fabric you cut off and us that to lengthen the sleeves.

I think vents will help with bunching, but so will removing all of the excess material.

Good Luck!

**MT4Runner** · 16th December 11, 01:15 PM

Thanks MacLowlife, I can absolutely remove the patch pockets. I was going to shorten them, but I'm not averse to losing them entirely. I rarely use the lower pockets on my regular sport coats, because keys/cell phone, etc. make a funny bulge.

...and that's why I've got a sporran!! I could build them, but won't bother to make slit pockets.

The gray jacket is definitely the roomiest. If I pull the patch pockets, removing the remaining flaps to take in some width won't be difficult. If that doesn't do it, I'll move next into the mid-side seams, and either take the coat in there and add paired vents, or both.

I'm probably going to need the length on the green jacket's cuffs, so a bucket cuff sounds like a good idea. Not thinking Prince Charlie chrome buttons, but maybe some muted pewter diamond-shaped buttons on it. They would complement a bucket/gauntlet cuff nicely.

Note to self: button sources:
http://twinrosesdesign.com/Buttons%20for%20Sale.html
http://www.treasurecast.com/index.ph...duct_list&c=95
http://www.dirkandthistle.com/catalog.html

**MT4Runner** · 19th December 11, 08:52 AM

"Hey, MT4Runner, you can't sew straight!"

Yes, my friend, but there is a method to my madness.

Turned, pressed, and topstitched.

The topstitch starts at the edge of the fabric, runs in a straight line, so in the middle of the rib is 3/16" from the edge, and hits the other edge of the fabric at the opposite end.

Why do you do that, you say?

When the edges are hemmed, I don't have to deal with the thickness of the rib. The seam can be ironed flat where it is folded over. See this pic where the edges are very thin.

Cuff overcheck aligns with fabric overcheck!

Basted everything inside

**MT4Runner** · 19th December 11, 08:53 AM

Two completed upper cuffs

Why would I go to all this effort?

Pinned in place:

**Thomas H** · 19th December 11, 08:58 AM

Thank You for shareing the pictures ,They are great and I am excited about seeing more

Looks Great

**MT4Runner** · 20th December 11, 08:35 AM

Last time we checked in with our intrepid fabric welder the right cuff was pinned in place.

I spent over two hours last night basting it to the sleeve, and I haven't finished sewing the lining!!

I basted the end of the sleeve deep inside the cuff, and also basted the cuff to the sleeve about 3/8" down from the top of the cuff. I wanted the cuff to set out from the body of the sleeve so it looks like it's turned up.

Shadow line at the top of the Argyll cuff:

The left cuff is also pinned in place.