this thread reminds me a lot of the sort of thing i researched several years ago when i changed jobs and needed wardrobe upgrades on a budget. i learned about canvas/half canvas, etc jackets, brands/label colors/different years. like wine or cars--even when you look at the same vineyard or model, some periods are better than others. budget conscious/more likely mass produced means making the best bet, while hand made/custom items are the guarantee.