Jacket ideas, traditional, modern, or something else?

[rondo]

While waiting my turn in 'the Que' for my new Newsome tank I'm revisiting jacket ideas.

I have a Saxon style sport coat that has no buttons nor buttonholes. It looks quite nice, traditional cut but sans buttons and holes, a very modern looking jacket. Do you think a 'Wallace' style jacket would look good sans buttons?
http://giftshop.scottishtartans.org/...e_jackets.html

I'm also looking at jackets with mandarin collars: http://www.makeyourownjeans.com/inde...5446523c0a5f60

Can a single style of cut [IE Wallace, or Nehru] work with only a change in the fabric? Example: we know an Argyle can work for day wear all the way up to formal depending on weather it is tweed or black barethea wool. Do you think the same would hold true for a jacket with a different cut?

Taking the Nehru as an example: a casual jacket in say corduroy, more dressy in say wool tweed, dressier still in black wool, and most dressy in velvet. Would the same cut [Nehru] work for for all the levels of formality?

Opinions with explanations for your reasoning appreciated. Thanks.

Rondo

P.S. I'm not looking for a traditional vs. modern discussion. Just cut and material comparisons.

[MacLowlife]

I think a Nehru is very close to some of those (T-word) dress jackets and doublets with assorted stand-up or military collars. I expect you could maybe wear one in a more casual fabric in the daytime. I think moleskin might be a good choice for just about any cut of jacket. But I have some misgivings about a do-it-all cut.

What sort of shirt were you thinking about?

That make-your-own site is interesting. Have you done business with them?

Back to your original idea, though. Buttons are one of the cues to the level of formality, along with puckered seams, pocket design, exactitude of cut, overall sleekness... Metal buttons, like jeans buttons, say "work clothes" while metal buttons with your initials say "dressy" and cloth covered buttons say "very dressy". Zippers say "casual" or "work clothes". If you lose the buttons, your jacket's formality will depend in part on fabric, but much more on the shirt you wear.

To my way of thinking, unless you just have an idea that a particular cut of jacket suits your physique better than any other, you might as well consider a more casual cut to go with that more casual fabric and a sleeker one for the dressier fabric. Sure, it might be interesting to have a "trademark" look, such as the Nehru-Mandarin, but one tool can only do so many jobs truly well. Daytime means pockets for toting stuff. Day dressy means some middle ground and nighttime formal means minimal cargo. Your trademark look may be in danger of having too many pockets or not enough.

Consider how a velvet jacket cut like a Levi's cowboy jacket would look- yes, dressier than denim, but not quite up to true evening wear- not with tabs at the waist and those vertical seams and pocket flaps, much less with puckered or welted seams. Similarly, a "Barracuta" jacket made up in tweed doesn't look as dressy as a tweed sportcoat. Did you ever see a denim blazer?

Think of the subtle differences between/among barn jackets, chore coats, field coats, bush jackets, and sport coats. Collars/lapels and cuffs are probably the biggest cues, but what about belts and pocket flaps or pleats? Will this jacket be expected to keep you warm? What distinguishes a black blazer from a tuxedo or a white one from a dinner jacket?

Consider also the differences among uniforms- cavalry breeches are intended to be functional, but you really wouldn't want to go into battle with too many capes and cords hanging off you. And I wouldn't want to try to carry much in the pockets of a Dress Mess outfit.

I'd like to put in one last vote for moleskin. I have seen some military cut jackets- four patch pockets with flaps and a stand up collar- in washed moleskin that look to me like they would go well with a kilt. I have a regular Saxon navy moleskin blazer that I am thinking of converting. It has open patch pockets. But I will probably go ahead and put on square silver buttons and cheat it into evening wear on some occasions.

[rondo]

Good points all. I prefer a minimalist approach where less is often more. Pocket flaps , to me, say casual, so i get what you are saying.

The Nehru I linked to, looks formal to my eye...satin trim, flapless pockets. I will probably try one to see. At the price I am not out much if it doesn't work.

For shirts I could see a number of possibilities. Same with neck wear. Anything from a bow tie to a lace jabot. With the Nehru, even a mandarin shirt with a jewel instead of a neck tie.

Guess I'll give it a try to see.

Rondo

[CMcG]

...
I'm also looking at jackets with mandarin collars: http://www.makeyourownjeans.com/inde...5446523c0a5f60

Can a single style of cut [IE Wallace, or Nehru] work with only a change in the fabric? Example: we know an Argyle can work for day wear all the way up to formal depending on weather it is tweed or black barethea wool. Do you think the same would hold true for a jacket with a different cut?

Taking the Nehru as an example: a casual jacket in say corduroy, more dressy in say wool tweed, dressier still in black wool, and most dressy in velvet. Would the same cut [Nehru] work for for all the levels of formality?

Opinions with explanations for your reasoning appreciated. Thanks.

I like Nehru collar jackets and the one you linked to reminds a bit of a mess jacket. It looks like it would probably work well with the kilt because of the higher waist and the way in hangs open, leaving room for a sporran.

The website says "For this jacket we use black satin trims even if the fabric selected is not black." A smooth, shiny fabric on the trim says to me this is intended as a slightly higher formality jacket. If the main fabric was fine, black wool it would be very formal because it would look like an alternative tuxedo jacket.

I have seen some tweed and also dark blue wool jackets at H&M recently that had black trim. They didn't quite look formal, so the added decoration just took them up a notch of spiffiness. I think the juxtaposition of a tweed Nehru with satin trim might be a bit too jarring because of the exaggerated contrast of texture and finish.

So to answer your question, yes I think a Nehru collar jacket could work at different levels of formality according the fabric it was made out of. Having satin trim, however, keys it towards the higher end of the formality scale and might preclude the use of very casual fabrics like tweed or corduroy, unless they were rather fine themselves.

[rondo]

I like Nehru collar jackets and the one you linked to reminds a bit of a mess jacket. It looks like it would probably work well with the kilt because of the higher waist and the way in hangs open, leaving room for a sporran.

These jackets are all made to measure, according to the web site, so one could have the jacket cut a bit shorter. I too think the Nehru jacket would work. I believe I will try one to see if it will work.

Rondo

[CMcG]

These jackets are all made to measure, according to the web site, so one could have the jacket cut a bit shorter. I too think the Nehru jacket would work. I believe I will try one to see if it will work.

Rondo

If or when you do, make sure to keep us posted!

[MacLowlife]

Someone else will have to comment authoritatively, but that jacket looks a lot like a West Point uniform, doesn't it? I believe I read that the cadets' uniforms have a zipper and are longer, but the color and the trim...

As usual, CMcG is right. The contrast between shiny black and tweed might be a bit much. I wonder if they would substitute black velvet for satin. On a flannel or herringbone jacket, it might be a good look.

I have had a little experience with discounted made-to-measure and the biggest disappointment is that they allow little or nothing in the way of room to let out the garment later. If you have any doubts, please go a little big- it is easier for your local guy to take it in.

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with...
M'll

[rondo]

MacLowlife,

LoL...I'm a 58r and about as big as I'm likely to be...ever. But I shall keep that in mind. At the prices they are charging even if the garment is low quality it will let me see if the concept works. If it does then that jacket can become a pattern for something of better quality and if it is decent quality perhaps I've found my bespoke jacket source.

For day wear, in the USA, I'm thinking corduroy instead of tweed. I'm a hot natured person, been living in Colorado for 14 years and still don't own a winter coat. All those years in Submarines in the Navy north of the Arctic Circle probably desensitized me to cold.

My tank won't be done until early summer so I have a lot of time to sort it out. I am thinking of doing a "one kilt ten modern looks" like Panache and McMurdo have done in the traditional forum. And while my tank will be a traditional kilt, I am thinking in terms of a more modern look daily and a more American look without being sloppy [if that makes sense].

Thanks for the replies.

Rondo

[Tobus]

How about something like a German style hunting jacket? This seems comparable in style to the ones above, and the length might just work with a kilt.



These guys have all kinds of interesting jackets in the German/Austrian styles, though I don't think they have much in your size, Rondo. It's worth keeping an eye on, though.

[rondo]

That's an interesting jacket Tobus. i'll check out the link, thanks.
Rondo