Thank you for your suggestion David.

While I can agree that a new Tartan based on the original would be a good idea, my goal was not to create a new design that is 'related' or derived from the Leatherneck. I do not want to infringe upon the work of the designers of the Leatherneck.

To my eye the Leatherneck just does not seem to represent the USMC to me. The Green is just 'off' and there is far too much Gold. And no White at all.

When I pleat up samples of the Leatherneck to the stripe there are three obvious choices.
I could offset the pleats to pick up the double red stripes. This would mean very narrow pleats to avoid also getting the blue right on the edge of each pleat.
I could pleat to the 'no stripe' using the center of the Green Band. The entire back of the kilt is now primarily Green. Tried it, don't care for it.
I could pleat to the Gold Stripe. This is the choice in the photo above. This makes for one bright, and my wife says gaudy, looking kilt. I like it, but not everyone would. In fact I usually keep a length of Leatherneck pinned up to the Gold Stripe as an example of an extreme look for my customers. Many run screaming "My eyes, my eyes. "Too bright."

The Leatherneck Tartan is not an easy one to pleat. Not due to the Tartan itself but due to the significance of the colors for those who have worn them.

So I went back to the basics. KISS! What are the colors of the Dress Blue Uniform? What are their proportions? Like the new Tartan or not. It does however represent the Dress Blue Uniform as I see it.