Tweed vs. Worsted Weight Wool

[Paul Henry]

There is a difference in the preparation for the threads of worsted wool yarn from ordinary wool yarn in that the individual strands are combed and all lie in the same direction, and the small lengths are removed. This was a technique developed in a village in England called Worsted in the 12th century.It means that the spun thread and woven cloth is finer and strongerand normally a tighter weave as well. It is generally thought of as a high quality product.
Harris tweed yarn doesn't undergo this technique so the resulting spun thread and cloth are consequently a it thicker and a bit hairier, and appears to be bulkier even for the same weight.Harris tweed is almost a special case as most normal tweed cloth is now made from more prepared yarns with finer and smoother threads, so it's important to realise that there is a big difference between Harris tweed and Marton Mills tweed, for example.
I've made kilts in both Harris and Marton Mills cloth and am happy with using either but there are differences.

Harris tweed because of it's bulk doesn't hold a pleat as well as Marton mill tweed, despite extended steam pressing, and using much more than about 6 yards would make a very bulky and thick kilt. Marton Mills tweed has a softer, thiner, and finer hand to the cloth and although it doesn't take a crease quite as well as a worsted cloth seems to work well.

Another point to note is that Harris cloth can be a little itchy as there are usually loose fibres and some people are sensitive to those,it's a lovely cloth and I enjoy using it, but I'd not really say it was the perfect cloth to make what we think of a classical and traditional 8 yard kilt, but it can be done!


I don't think there is a durabilty issue between the two, but the softer and less tightly woven Harris cloth will acheive a "worn in" look a bit faster and perhaps need a little more care in the upkeep.

There are of course lots of different tweeds available and lots of different weights and finishes from lots of different weavers, I think tweed makes a lovely kilt and I don't believe there is much of a difference in swish between comparable weights.

I think tweeds kitls are lovely and enjoy wearing and making them but the actual cloth is different from a typcial worsted tartan, that isn't a negative thing, and I'd certainly say that they are worth a serious look .


You can clearly see the more open weave and softer feel of the Harris tweed here,this was a traditional knife pleated kilt using about 5 yards of cloth whichI think of a good lenght to work with