I used to divide the shaping equally between all the pleats, but - looking in large mirrors, I saw that there was too much expansion in the kilts at the sides, so there the pleats were sliding under each other, whilst those at the back were wanting to open out more.

I had shaped the pleats to make a / \ when what I needed was more l l when viewed from the front - with almost all the shaping close to the centre back.

By tapering the pleats more where they lie 'on the bone' and having the ones which lie on the padding just eased in a little in the top two inches the fit is more exact.

You need to taper to match your own shape, particularly when using a fabric which will not distort like wool.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: