Box Pleating question: Balancing deep pleat size with inner pleat gap size

[usonian]

Thanks Steve,

Waist 42", Hips 47.5". Pleat splits: Waist 20.5, Hips 24.5 These measurements are a known quantity, as I used them for my 8 yard kilt which fits nicely. I may reduce the waist measurement a little bit, but not the hips.

A complete sett is 10 3/4 inches, but being Black Watch it has an ABAC pattern, where A is the green block with black overcheck. The distance from A block to A block varies by 1/8" due to the B and C blocks being slightly different sizes, but for all intents and purposes a half sett averages 5 3/8 inches.

Thanks for the solid-color underapron extension idea, Anne & kiltedwolfman - this tartan is so dark that it could work very well indeed assuming I can get my hands on some suitable fabric.