Should I pleat to the sett, or to the stripe?

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About that tartan, if I were you I would go with the older genuine traditional symmetrical Buchanan rather than the asymmetrical one, the asymmetry of which has been traced to an illustrator's error in a 19th century book. In Victorian times they didn't know any better, but now we do.

Here is the original sett, which would probably look very nice pleated to the white line

http://www.scotlandshop.com/tartan.a...t-Tartan-12161

I agree that would look sharp. I do, however, already have a Buchanan in the Ancient color scheme (its one of the "Essential" 5 yd deals that Nick offered via the Scotweb section of this forum.) I think what you've linked to is also known as the "Buchanan Old Sett".

At some point, I'll likely have a Coast Guard tartan, and that'll definitely be done to the stripe. But until then, I'll have this Bucky (and the Buchanan Reproduction that I'm also ordering), done "to the sett."