I use lighter threads for sewing, so that the stitches give way before the fabric. That way I might have to restitch something into place, but I don't end up with a line of stitches firmly through the backing material and my kilt fabric torn into two pieces.

For pleats you should only require a light thread - if the sewing breaks it is under too much strain, the foundation layers might be wrongly fitted, they ought to take the pressure of the fixings and the stress of movement, sitting etc. Quilting or button thread should be adequate for the buckles and straps, and for the under pinning of the fell - again if it isn't then there is something not right. The kilt was not designed to constrict - it is not a corset by another name.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: