Lets talk tartan waistcoats

[creagdhubh]

Bias Cut- No it's not REQUIRED, but I do think a bias cut waistcoat is generally much better looking as a garment, and more flattering when worn. The bias cut breaks up the visual monotony of the tartan, and the diagonal helps hide any 'tummy' issues rather than emphasizing them with the horizontal pattern.

No, it doesn't need to be the exact same as the kilt cloth. Variation in the sett size can be nice.

I'd probably not wear a tartan waistcoat during the day, unless it was for a particularly fancy event.

ith:

I agree 100%. I have one tartan waistcoat that is not cut on the bias and I really don't care for it, which is the reason why it is currently up for sale on eBay. All of my other tartan waistcoats are cut on the bias and match each tartan kilt I own; however, I have paired my waistcoat in the Macpherson red 'ancient' tartan with my kilt in the Macpherson red 'modern' tartan and I quite like the effect. They are both the same sett and the same overall sett size, so they look aesthetically pleasing. I wouldn't mix tartans though; i.e. -I would never wear my Macpherson hunting 'modern' tartan waistcoat with my Macpherson red 'ancient' kilt and so on - they are both two completely different setts. I prefer to restrict the wearing of my tartan waistcoats (3-4 button) for black tie events where Highland evening attire is worn.

Macpherson red 'modern' tartan waistcoat.




Cheers,

[AJBryant]

If you don't mind a slight diversion of topic...

There are, I notice, several different types (and possibly levels of formality?) waistcoats here. I generally think of tartan waistcoats as alternative wear with Argyll (and related) jackets, where in my mind it has a higher collar and four or five buttons; then there's the more formal version with low (shawl) collar and only three buttons, as worn with a Prince Charlie.

So my question is this: what does the tartan waistcoat with a PC do to level of formality (vs. black or white waistcoats)? And ditto the tartan waistcoat with an Argyll? (And how about a non-black, like grey or Lovat Green, Argyll, which has horn buttons rather than silver?)

I'm thinking about a higher, shawl-collar (bias-cut) waistcoat to wear with the Argyll, but I had an idea for TWO sets of button holes (one in the top, one in the bottom) which would allow me to switch out buttons -- à la cufflinks -- in silver and in horn, to allow me to wear it with a black Argyll or a tweed one. Does that sound insane?

This, from an earlier thread, is the design I'm thinking of (linkie here!), generally, although with the more conventional pointed bottom panels instead of a straight hem.

[artificer]

I'm thinking about a higher, shawl-collar (bias-cut) waistcoat to wear with the Argyll, but I had an idea for TWO sets of button holes (one in the top, one in the bottom) which would allow me to switch out buttons -- à la cufflinks -- in silver and in horn, to allow me to wear it with a black Argyll or a tweed one. Does that sound insane?

why don't you just attach the buttons with cotter pins? Many silver buttons are done this way to make polishing easier.

ith:

[OC Richard]

My only thing with tartan waistcoats which are not cut to the bias is that they sort of look like an extension of the kilt, like you're wearing some big overall-like garment.

I've been thinking about doing something a bit odd perhaps: buying a waistcoat in the dark Black Watch tartan and wearing it with any of my three kilts, none of which are Black Watch. This way I have the extra touch of a tartan waistcoat but only have to purchase one!

Any photos out there of mixed tartans like that?

[MacMillans son]

Here is one of me, and a well known friend here, at an event in California. I had the waistcoat made with horn buttons and straight oriented tartan which I think is a bit more casual, consistent with the reproduction colored tartan. I have recently had the buttons changed to self-colored fabric and wore it with black tie, also to good effect IMHO Nathan, I think this might be an example of being smart daywear without necessarily being traditional.



I guess it comes down to, within reason, if you like it go with it.

[Ancienne Alliance]

Here are some of my waistcoats :





























Best,

Robert

[Nathan]

Some beautiful pics thus far in the thread. This is the waistcoat that prompted the thread. Apologies for the poorly lit selfies.

[CMcG]

I think there is nothing wrong with wearing size variants of the same sett or items cut from different runs/ages of the same sett. I've seen pics of folks in the Highlands pairing different colour schemes of the same tartan (i.e. weathered with modern) or even different tartans from the same clan, though I personally don't prefer the way that looks.

Many people seem to likt a bias cut tartan waistcoat because of the contrast it creates with the kilt, but a square cut tartan waistcoat can also look good because of the way it fits with the kilt. I don't think there is a difference in formality of the tartan cut, but rather the height of gorge. A low cut waistcoat is for formal wear, while a higher cut one is a bit more versatile.

In my experience with THCD, a tartan waistcoat is uncommon for daywear, but not entirely out of bounds. I would tend to reserve it for impact, such as on Tartan Day or a special Scottish occasion. It would seem a bit much just for a trip down to the pub...

Here's a few pics of my tartan waistcoat, worn at increasing levels of formality.

[Jock Scot]

Sorry, a bit late on parade on this one. I can only tell you what I have seen over the years here in Scotland and others may well have seen tartan waist coats(pictures even)in Scotland that I have not.

Having said that, in 70 something years, I could count on my fingers the times that I have seen a tartan waist coat -----and still have some fingers left----worn with day attire.

For formal evening wear, tartan waist coats are rather more common(not common place), particularly in the Western Highlands, as are tartan jackets. I can only recall tartan waist coats and tartan jackets being cut on the bias and to my eyes that seems to work for those that like them. From the pictures that I have seen of tartan waist coats not cut on the bias, I am afraid that, for me, they just do not impress.

[creagdhubh]

For formal evening wear, tartan waist coats are rather more common (not common place), particularly in the Western Highlands, as are tartan jackets.

Precisely, Jock. I can count on one hand the number of Macphersons, to include myself, that will sometimes wear a tartan waistcoat with their Highland evening attire at our annual ball and ceilidh at the Duke of Gordon Hotel in Kingussie. Most of what you see is either black or scarlet barathea waistcoats.