OK, I think I have a handle on it. At least, I'm gonna press forward and hope I'm right. Thanks for your post. I read it, then found the old post of yours you mentioned and read it a few times. After that, I went and stared at my kilt-in-the-making for a while, probably drooled a little, made faces, and scratched a few things. I think I have it now. I'm planning on just folding my 1st and last pleats straght down at the seam, not folding anything under, and tacking them down. Then after that I'll fold the under apron pleat in and fix the bottom so it doesnt hang out under the bottom of the apron, and sew the under apron pleat edge down as well. Now, I have a different question. Looking at appendix 1 to the left of the drawing, just right of the 16" under apron, is a 3" section before 1st pleat. The description under it says front facing, inner fold of last pleat. Does that fold under the last 3" pleat, or the under apron? thanks again!