Quality Kilts 101: Pleat Quality

[Hamish]

Hamish, I was wondering where you have been! This is just the type of thread that your vast collection will help.

Thanks so much for chiming-in! It's appreciated.

Thanks for that Jimmy. As I was explaining elsewhere and earlier, my lifestyle has changed of late allowing me rather less time for logging on - some days I just cannot make it at all. Right now it's 2.15 am and I have to be up again soon after 6.30 am, and that's how it's been recently - and I am retired, for Heaven's sake!!!

Believe me, I'll not desert you all, although I might miss some of your posts when I don't have the time to read them all as I've done until now.

[Jimmy Carbomb]

What this all points out is, that there is a certain amount of skill, care and knowledge that goes into making a true "quality" kilt. Whether it's knowing the simple art of sewing straight, or knowing what it takes to properly taper a kilt so that it actually hangs right and fits properly... there's a HUGE difference.

We're paying GOOD MONEY for these kilts, and deserve to have it rewarded with quality workmanship. Those who own and wear the well-made kilts know what I'm writing about. The guys who haven't had the chance to wear one of these "tanks" just can't know the difference... and it's substantial.

Take the time to examine the kilts. Research the company and the knowledge that they have. If you're relatively new to the kilt-owning group, step back and look at what's out there! There are more than 20 companies just in North America.

Know your tartan... know your kiltmaker's quality and skill... know what you really want!

[Jimmy Carbomb]

Informational Side Note:

There's a thread in the "Traditional Kilts" section that is being replied to, by those members that actually have the "tanks".

I'm asking for it to be a comparison of the "real thing" to the advertised "wannabes". For those that do not yet own an authentic, it's good reading.

It should help you to understand what quality craftsmanship, pleat knowledge, care in manufacturing, and experience mean to a kilt.

Know your tartan... know your kiltmaker's skill and experience.

[bear]

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Both of my wool, hand-sewn kilts have slivers of their bottom edge's tucked up and sewn to the body of the kilt in order to make the bottom edge run straight. Without close scrutiny of the bottom of the apron and its sides this is not noticeable.

.............................

Mychael, if it is of any comfort to you, all of my 26 Scottish-tailored kilts and breacans have that short length of 'turn up' stitched at the bottom of the first pleat to the left of the front apron, no matter from which kiltmaker they came, or whether they were tailored in 1973 or 2004.

As far as I know this is done to prevent that part of the fabric showing below the apron. I have previously asked other kilt-wearing friends about this and their kilts are similarly tailored.

It would appear to be a recognised part of the traditional kiltmaking process. I'll ask Howie Nicholsby about it when I next see him.

Hamish,
I think you should still ask Howie to get the expert opinion, but every kiltmaking instruction manual/site I've see instructs you to fold up and stitch that fold that falls lower than the front apron.
Also, the inside apron sometimes need it the same treatment if it falls too low.

[Miah]

I can understand the love of a nice item and all but....
I don't own a "Tank" oh i do want one. BUT spending 400 bucks on a peice of clothing is just not in the cards. no matter what quality it is. I was not going to post on there because i just about got offended but I got thick skin, hell I am a Leatherneck. All the same I don't want people to get into a sepratist ideal, or way of thinking. Just because I don't own a 16 oz traditional Kilt from the UK, that is hand made by a little old lady that has knuckles the size of Golf balls from her 45 years of sewing, does not mean i don't enjoy being kilted and the idea of it, and the history behind it. I tried for this not to come off to rude or abrasive, but if it did i apoligize ahead of time.

[Jimmy Carbomb]

I tried for this not to come off to rude or abrasive, but if it did i apoligize ahead of time.

Not at all buddy! In fact, if these posts are appearing to be somewhat harsh... it's NOT towards the kilt wearers. It's towards the kilt makers!

There are companies that advertise their kilts justly. Lochcarron says that they are hand-sewn traditional kilts and THEY ARE. When a company says that they make casual kilts in 4 or 8 yard increments, that's what they do... that's what they sell. In the traditionals, we're trying to help distinguish between the authentics and the "would like to be authentics". That's quite different from those who claim (and produce) the casuals. We're posting on "truth in advertising".

For those that can't afford, or don't necessarily want to "fork-over" for an expensive kilt... that's COMPLETELY understandable! The point with all of this information is VERY IMPORTANT and should NOT be taken as a "nose in the air" attitude. Here are two points that are the aim...

ONE: know the tartan, and the history that goes with it. It was designed with care and intention, and garners the respect that comes with the tradition. It might just get you out of a "spat" on occasion, when some "drunken historian" calls your number.

TWO: know the kiltmaker and the quality. A kiltmaker with experience, care, skill and technique will get my money everytime! We're attempting to show the relative newcomer what to look for. There ARE great kilts being made out there, and there are guys who can tell you what's good and what's a waste of money. The tell-tale signs are in the construction!

Being a "kilt snob" is EXACTLY what we're NOT looking for with these posts and threads! Understand that there are guys with education in kilts, who really want to share the experiences and knowledge with the others. It's interesting conversation, great comparison in quality, and should be an education for those who want to know more about what's out there!

[Casey]

Jimmy,

I think that each of us can make up or own mind as to the type of kilts we prefer or can afford.

It's really great to have all of this information to help those of us that are new to the "kilt", to make choices.

Thanks to your great posts I now have a real hankering (Not our Hank) for a "tank". I do curse you and thank you for that.

Also, I am of the opinion, and you know what is said about opinions, that the debates on the forum are good and promote the exchange of information and ideas. Arguements are destructive.

Thanks to all that share.

Casey

[Raphael]

The Different between a custom tailored and an off-the-rack Kilt is huge. I may pay extra for my Bear Kilt, but it fits me like a glove. It doesn't look too big or too small or makes my *** looks fat .

[RockyR]

This thread has been very helpful and hopefully will continue to grow.

It is true that some of us that are new to this sometimes go for the shorter wait. Very understandable, We or at least I spent several months reading about them, the quality, the design, the number of pleats, how deep, reading your experiences, etc. and then when we finally were ready to make the plunge, a 3 month wait was either too long because we were anxous or buying for an occasion or also in my case the hundred dollar kilt was all I could afford and that was a stretch right now. So the less expensive kilts certainly are providing a good way to get us kilted.... enjoying this great garment while we save our shekles for a more traditional one. We can wait while kilted as opposed to having our legs stuck in tubes.

I was wondering though, I have read some positive comments also about a very inexspensive kilt, the Stillwater, standard and economy, Now I would buy the standard if I bought one but both are way too long at 24" I would need to cut 2 1/2 to 3 inches off as it seems a 3 inch hem as they suggest doing instead of cutting would be bulky.

Without bashing this company which seems to have a great reputation in service and quality for the dollar, Can you advise me on these? I would probably rather have a bear from what I have read, but I am interested in the Stillwater also, they appear pretty good in the pics on their site from my uneducated eye. http://stillwaterkilts.com But I must say that after reading some of tyour posts some of the pleats look crookd in this photo but perhaps that is just how it is laying???? What about what to do with the length???



Anyone dare to venture an opinion? You can send me a PM if you don't want your view public. I would not consider you a coward. Just circumspect. We don't need to offend them, but If they need some pointers to improve the quality then here is a good place I guess.

[Canuck]

snip
I was wondering though, I have read some positive comments also about a very inexspensive kilt, the Stillwater, standard and economy, Now I would buy the standard if I bought one but both are way too long at 24" I would need to cut 2 1/2 to 3 inches off as it seems a 3 inch hem as they suggest doing instead of cutting would be bulky.

Without bashing this company which seems to have a great reputation in service and quality for the dollar, Can you advise me on these? I would probably rather have a bear from what I have read, but I am interested in the Stillwater also, they appear pretty good in the pics on their site from my uneducated eye. http://stillwaterkilts.com But I must say that after reading some of tyour posts some of the pleats look crookd in this photo but perhaps that is just how it is laying???? What about what to do with the length???


Anyone dare to venture an opinion? You can send me a PM if you don't want your view public. I would not consider you a coward. Just circumspect. We don't need to offend them, but If they need some pointers to improve the quality then here is a good place I guess.

Look at the economy unit you will see it is already hemmed. I suggest you read the post on stillwater, with regards to the economy model. If you have to hem it as well that's an extra cost would that money get you the model up. It's like buying a car sometimes the luxury model gives the bigger bang for the buck.