Jeans kilt prototypes

[vorpallemur]

I didn't know that. But since I've already bought the fabric, the experiment will have to continue. Iron, iron, iron it is then.

The second row of stitches is only through one layer of fabric, not both as the stitching on the pleat is. And since I have just a simple sewing machine, I already figured I needed to cut the top pleats back and do some steeking. There's no way the machine will go through all those layers at the waistband if I don't do this.Good thing the library had "The art of kiltmaking".

Denim shouldn't exhibit progressive shrinkage. It will exhibit a lot relaxation shrinkage, wich may take two or four washings to get out. Wash it hot, and dry it. Once it's made up, don't use hot water, and don't dry it dry. (better to hang dry.)

I've made some rev-K demin kilts. Shrinkage wasn't ever a problem, but wrinkles were.

also, top stitching like you're proposing doesn't look good if the rows aren't evenly spaced and parallel. I use edge guide feet, but they're hard to find for domestic sewing machines. In the absence of one, use a ruler to draw a line on the fabric in chalk or wash out marker or pencil a fixed distance (3/8" is the usual gauge for double needle stitching on jeans) away from the first line.

[woutervw]

also, top stitching like you're proposing doesn't look good if the rows aren't evenly spaced and parallel. I use edge guide feet, but they're hard to find for domestic sewing machines. In the absence of one, use a ruler to draw a line on the fabric in chalk or wash out marker or pencil a fixed distance (3/8" is the usual gauge for double needle stitching on jeans) away from the first line.

I have 4 pleats done and what worked for me was doing the top-stitching part first. I basically use the side of the sewing foot as a guide. With more or less corresponds to 3/8" if I sew the pleat itself close to the edge. It's a relatively easy way to do it, it just requires some concentration to stay on track.

[Layne]

I actually am a jeans lover - wear kilts when not at work, jeans at work (due to a safety reg requiring all employees to wear full length pants), and I Love the idea, love the look thus far, (as for your question, I like the first photo you show), and would be excited to see the finished product.

[Canuck]

Some of the challenges one encounters with denim and pleat curl stems from a number of factors. It's hard to find denim made from 100% cotton, a lot of it will have some lycra, giving it more give and stretch, it can be a challenge to sew and you may have better results piecing the kilt in 60" widths and splicing the selvedge ends to get the desired length of the kilt rather than having the selvedge as the hem. If the pleat face is too wide and there isn't enough pleat depth the pleat will curl. If there's too much taper from waist to hip that will also cause the pleats to kick out. (Adding more pleats will ease this problem) Then there is the issue of too many pleats and you have bulk and you will need to cut away the excess material.
I have found that a pleat face between 1.25" and 1.5" and pleat depth of 3" (6" of fabric) work rather well. There is no need to cut out pleats. If you sew the fell and pick up the previous two pleats there is no need for steeking and your pleated section will be very strong. Most sewing machines will be able to sew through this thickness. Denim can be hard on needles so have a number on hand. Start with a fresh needle when sewing the waistband.
Reverse Kingussie pleating will lie flat if proper measurements are taken. The issue with off the rack kilts is in most cases if the hip is bigger than the ratio determined by the manufacturer the pleats will turn out.
For sewing close to the edge of the fabric you can get a guide that is magnetic, works like a fence on a table saw.

[woutervw]

Thanks for all the advice. My major issue right now is that my sewing machine is not handling the thread through the denim all that well. I'm using Coats Dual Duty Plus® Extra Strong Denim Thread, and that is rather thick. It looks really good, but my sewing machine has a hard time keeping the tension right. I tried adjusting the bobbin, but the bottom part of a stitch is still loose. And if I tighten it any further, I get hangups where loops of the thread will get caught in the bobbin mechanism. The thread feels like it is not of a uniform thickness, so it can get hung up inside.

Thanks for the tip on the guide. I'm thinking that this new hobby is going to require some investments.

I have found that a pleat face between 1.25" and 1.5" and pleat depth of 3" (6" of fabric) work rather well.

That is exactly what I'm doing now. Ten pleats of 1.5" with 3" depth on each side. It's a lot of fabric! 192" in total.

[The Wizard of BC]

woutervw,

What this sounds like to me is the wrong needle. When selecting the needle for your machine you should match the needle size to the diameter of the thread you are using.

Most machine manufacturers recommend a size 16/18 (100/110) for sewing denim with the thick, yellow, jeans thread. On anything heavier than "Dockers" pants fabric I use size 18 needles.

You also need to avoid ball point needles as denim is a tough fabric and needs a good sharp point to pierce the fabric.

If your thread is leaving loose loops on the bottom of your stitch it is not the bobbin that needs adjustment it is the top tension that is too loose. Start by setting the bobbin tension till the bobbin will almost fall on its own if you hold it by the thread and make a gentle yo-yo motion.

Then concentrate only on adjusting the top tension. If you try sewing about 4-6 inches and adjust top tension and sew another 4-6 inches you should see the change in the look of your stitches. Make adjustments in real small steps. Only about 1/2 a number turn on your upper tension wheel. (1 to 1-1/2 on the wheel) (Then 1-1/2 to 2)

[Canuck]

I agree on the tension. Rarely is it the bobbin tension that causes the problem. As Steve mentions the upper tension needs to be adjusted.
Needles do play an important part. I can tell by the sound it makes going through the material if it requires replacing. A dull thump sound usually means you need to switch them out. I use size 18 needles as well. In my old singer I used 16 and they were ballpoints and I didn't have any problems.
Let the machine do the work, don't force feed or the needle will hit the needle plate get dull faster or break.
Much success

[woutervw]

Swapped the needle out for a sharp, new #18. It made a bit of a difference. I still don't get the bottom thread to be tight. Adjusted the bobbin tension as described, and I just can't get the tension right. It is really thick denim. I'll just keep experimenting, I guess.

[Canuck]

Re thread the machine. Make sure the thread is in the tension disks. Follow Steve's suggestion on adjusting the upper thread tension.
It is also possible the presser foot is too loose. On most machines there is either a thumb wheel or screw that you can tighten to apply more pressure on the foot.
On some machines when the presser foot is lifted, it releases the tension disks to allow the thread to move freely when moving the work out of the machine. If the material is too thick and doesn't allow the foot to fully come down it will not allow the tension disks to tighten. (This usually manifest itself on multiple layers of fabric)
Is the tension OK when sewing 2 pieces of fabric together?

[woutervw]

I didn't feel like messing with the settings of the machine and I didn't have to do any topstitching anyway. So I tacked all the pleats and used the thinner blue thread to sew the tops of the pleats down. It is actually starting to look like a kilt!