My first X-Kilt attempt

[Pleater]

The horizontal folds under the middle belt are usually indicative of a 'fitting fault' - usually it shows that the garment is a little too narrow at that height so it moves upwards to lie more easily. It can also indicate that there is too much length between two fixed points, but I think that the solution Steve suggests, of loosening the lower part of the kilt will solve the problem wherever it is being generated.

It will ease the tension at hip level, and give a smoother more / \ shape to the whole kilt, rather than having the pleats opening out below the fell. You could always have the lower fastenings but with a greater circumference in the garment so they are not under tension.

As I have often said to customers for the garments I make - just because you can wear something that size, it doesn't mean that you should.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[swagmore]

Thanks for all the input. I loosened the buckles and moved the bottom buckles and fell line up about 2" and as a result it did make a difference. It hangs better with less puckering on the front apron and the pleats do lay more flat. I also do not appear to have the pucker the on the back side that Steve pointed out. I will post some more pics soon. I may also re-make the front apron to be a little wider and with a taper just to see how that might work out. Thanks again.

Steve

[ratspike]

Having the apron as a separate piece is definitely interesting. One thing that's a issue with narrow front aprons is having the edges kick out, so I'm curious what kind of issue you'll have with that, if any at all, since your apron is separate.

[swagmore]

It is easy enough to find out.

Steve

[The Wizard of BC]

Swagmore,

I think you may have over thought your apron. If you look at a traditional kilt the apron is essentially separate and free floating too. It is just not removable.
A Traditional apron does not need all those attachment points to hang well. In fact we are now advocating leaving the hip strap off to avoid distorting the natural hang of the aprons.

I actually did a few test kilts with removable aprons. I dropped the idea just because I did not have a market for it. For a one off it it fine but not suitable for my customer base.

The KISS principal is always good to keep in the back of your mind. Keep It Simple, Stupid. If you don't need it, if it does not perform a function, don't put it on.

The X Kilt is a wonderful design. It is exactly what it is. An easy design for a novice to knock out quickly in a weekend. When we start to change the design it is no longer an X Kilt.

You've come up with a unique and personal garment. Congratulations.

But there is nothing wrong with learning from what went before. Adopting what has worked for others in the past and then making it your own. This is why, in school, you learn the history of how a thing came about. Be it Art, Design, Architecture, etc. The wheel has already been designed. We learn about how others have designed a wheel so we don't have spend all that time and effort duplicating that work.

[swagmore]

Steve, I understand what you are saying and highly respect your experience making kilts. Thanks for the feedback. Call mine an X-Kilt or something else I don't mind. I started from the X-Kilt design and I changed it to make it what I desired. I wanted the apron to be removable as a matter of personal preference. Sorry for the misleading use of the term "floating". I have a long way to go before I understand what constitutes a "proper" or "well made" kilt or how one should "behave" or "look" when worn but thanks to the feedback of those more experienced like yourself and this forum I am learning. My first attempt has been just that, a first attempt and it has taught me a lot.

Steve

[Steve Ashton]

Please, do not think that I was disrespecting or belittling your effort in any way. You did a great job.

But I find that it is really helpful for those thinking about a modern style garment like an X Kilt to have some experience with other styles and types of kilts.

May I ask, have you ever worn a traditionally made kilt?

[swagmore]

No not at all...no offense taken. It is very helpful and I want the feedback. How else could I get any better if I wanted to? I know that what I have made is not what it could be and thanks to your comments it is already better as a result. No, I have not ever worn or even seen a traditionally made kilt outside of what I saw at the Grandfather Mountain Highland Games back in about 1993'ish? and I have forgotten a lot since then. I would like to better understand what constitutes a "traditionally made kilt" and would love to someday learn enough to make one or learn enough to know I better let someone else do it.

Steve

[ratspike]

Pick up a copy of "The Art of Kiltmaking" by Barb Tewksbury. If you want to learn to make kilts of any sort, modern or traditional, I think you'll find it a fantastic resource. Pretty much everything that goes into making a handsewn traditional kilt has some application in a modern kilt as well.

Dig it here: http://www.celticdragonpress.com/

[swagmore]

Thanks Bob, I will do that.

Steve