I'm not a kilt maker - but I can understand the difficulty is that some sett's don't quite work easily with such a regular approach and that a fudge is needed by making one pleat slightly wider or narrower to accommodate a particular stripe. I am amazed by the skill that makers use to do this, having an eye for the pattern and what the result will look like - so that viewing the kilt one can't even see the very slight shifts in pleat size that makers use to make the pleats work.
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