Sorry - I have one more comment about choosing pleats. Steve and I make different kinds of kilts, so my comment below is specifically about making a trad hand stitched kilt. I'm not posting this to disagree with how Steve makes his kilts but to clarify for those who use TAoK and are trying to make a trad kilt by traditional methods what would be acceptable and what wouldn't in a trad kilt.

One of the expectations of a trad kilt pleated to the sett is that pleats on each side of a pivot are actually mirror images of one another. In one of Steve's posts, he included a photo of a pleating that does reproduce the sett but that results in the pleats on each side of the pivot not being mirror images. I've put yellow arrows at point that should be mirror images if you were making a trad kilt.



For those of you who are making a traditional hand sewn kilt, this would actually not be acceptable. It doesn't mean that the pleating is wrong for other kinds of kilts, but it's not something that you would see in traditional kilt.