Construction of kilt with reinforced wasitband

[Pleater]

I probably put a lot more thought into the sewing of the waistband than most.

The inner measurement needs to be waistline under compression with enough room for clothing. The thickness of the pleats band and webbing makes this different from the outer measurement.

The fabric part of the kilt is sewn outside the webbing as otherwise an impression of the ridges is made on the skin. Usually up to 2 inches of pleats and one inch of each apron is eased in, to ensure there is no tension on the garment and no bulge at the edge of the webbing. The webbing can vary from several inches in height - I think that the grey seatbelt is 2 inches - down to an inch. The amount apparent from the outside of the kilt is usually about an inch, and the fabric is usually level with the top edge.

The waistband is already sewn onto the outside of the kilt so it is already larger than the waist size. It is relaxed even when curved around the body. It is sewn on right side to right side of kilt at the same level as the stitches put in to secure the pleats - about 15mm from the edge. It is then folded to the inside over the kilt and the webbing, and secured on the inside.

Different kilts have had different finishings on the inside. Where the fabric was only just enough the raw edge was caught down and a ribbon put over to hide the edge and the webbing.
On others the fabric covered all the webbing and is tucked around the lower edge. Gentle pressing shrinks it down the several inches which had to be 'lost' and a satin ribbon is sewn on before the lower edge is tacked and then machine sewn along the edge of the webbing.
When I found that the material cut for the waistband was not going to do at all I just hid the cut edge with a ribbon attached to the webbing at the top and the pleats at the bottom.

The ribbon stops any fibres of the coarser webbings which can penetrate the weave of the fabric and light clothing.

Fastenings can be various - D rings and cords, strap and buckle, hook and slot. They do have to be substantial. I have some kilts which are 30 inches long and over 8 yards, the stresses and strains on the joins must be cosmic. They are sewn through all layers with black button thread and leather ones are removed for washing.

I'll include some photos of the finishing of the navy blue kilt as it proceeds.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: