Looking for a company to make Family Tartan Fabric

[KiltFitz]

I wouldn't know what your customers tell you. I know some people love Dalgleish cloth. I've read what Alan told you about Scotweb. I know what I told you. I don't know what feedback you regularly receive about communication. I'm glad it's all going so well for you.

I have changed my mind about one thing though. Earlier I opined that your values aren't reflected in customer service practice but after a short discourse here, I believe that maybe they are. Apologies for this error.

As you say, the theme has been hijacked enough and this is surely moot for the OP who has told us he'll probably go with Marton Mills anyway.

As a potential customer, I'll stay interested in this but thanks for taking the time to contribute.

[Priest]

Again, you all have provided a great amount of information and as the author of this thread I appreciate everything. While yes I am corresponding with Marton Mills there is in no way anyting set in stone yet. I understand that business is business and with a business they have to make a living. It's easy for me, I want one company I can contract with to produce the tartan material for my family name with the availability to be only from that company. Different companies have different ways of creating products using different materials and the end product, while top quality, might not always be exact to each other and there can be confusion down the road. If I can find what I want at a comfortable price across the board, not just for me then that is the company I will of course. It is the same with me. while yes I am a Soldier, I am also a professional photographer and have clients that only work with me because I recreate their images exactly as they want them and provide professionally bound image books that other people just cant do. I know that is off topic, sorry for the retrack. Again thank you everyone for all of the info and I will continue to check back for any updates or ideas.

I wouldn't know what your customers tell you. I know some people love Dalgleish cloth. I've read what Alan told you about Scotweb. I know what I told you. I don't know what feedback you regularly receive about communication. I'm glad it's all going so well for you.

I have changed my mind about one thing though. Earlier I opined that your values aren't reflected in customer service practice but after a short discourse here, I believe that maybe they are. Apologies for this error.

As you say, the theme has been hijacked enough and this is surely moot for the OP who has told us he'll probably go with Marton Mills anyway.

As a potential customer, I'll stay interested in this but thanks for taking the time to contribute.

[OC Richard]

Priest, I for one would be interested to know what price quote(s) you get.
(edited to remove incorrect speculation)

[Priest]

Priest, I for one would be interested to know what price quote(s) you get.

I just did some Googling for Marton Mills. Their site says the minimum bespoke run is 13 meters. I tried to find prices of their stock tartans (their site doesn't seem to list any prices, but refer you to stockists) and I found one place giving the price of their Jura tartan at 40 pounds/meter (double width).

This

"The price is not quite double that of a stock Tartan"

would infer that bespoke Jura would be well over $100/meter, over $1,300 for the minimum run.

The reply I go from them yesterday with my tartan design was 11 meters minimum at 38 pounds/meter. But that was just for the fabric. The customer service rep said they don't make the kilts, just the fabric but making the kilt is not that difficult I can do that myself. The other companies cost the same. 13 meter minimum at 44 Pounds/meter and then they will make me a kilt from it for an additional 199 pounds. No way haha.

[Barb T]

Sorry if others have already mentioned this, but, in cast they haven't, just be sure you know if that is double or single width. 11 meters double width (12 yards) is enough to make 3 standard trad knife-pleated kilts.

[Priest]

Sorry if others have already mentioned this, but, in cast they haven't, just be sure you know if that is double or single width. 11 meters double width (12 yards) is enough to make 3 standard trad knife-pleated kilts.

I will double check the email and see if it is double or single. I did not know that, thank you for the info.

[Alan H]

The reply I go from them yesterday with my tartan design was 11 meters minimum at 38 pounds/meter. But that was just for the fabric. The customer service rep said they don't make the kilts, just the fabric but making the kilt is not that difficult I can do that myself. The other companies cost the same. 13 meter minimum at 44 Pounds/meter and then they will make me a kilt from it for an additional 199 pounds. No way haha.

don't forget that there is a 25% Import Duty for "wool or fine animal hair" textiles intended for clothing imported from the UK -> USA. That's a LOT. You might get charged for it. ----Or you might not. You just don't know until it happens.....or doesn't. Note that the import duty for polyester-viscose is significantly different (I think)_.

As a complete aside, I have purchased Polyester-viscose directly from Marton Mills several times and have always had excellent customer service from them.

I can't speak as to the ethics of pricing, distribution and so on, and also, I've never bought wool fabric from them.

[Benning Boy]

When I last ordered from MM I was not charged an import duty. However, shipping was something like £35, but that was for shipping by the fastest most secure way available to MM, the only way they would ship. The bolt of tartan arrived in three days, as I recall, and was in perfect condition. I've never been charged an import duty on anything I've purchased from outside the US, and that's been quite a bit.

[OC Richard]

don't forget that there is a 25% Import Duty for "wool or fine animal hair" textiles intended for clothing imported from the UK -> USA. That's a LOT. You might get charged for it. ----Or you might not. You just don't know until it happens.....or doesn't. Note that the import duty for polyester-viscose is significantly different (I think)_.

Good to know. I didn't think about that side of things, that MM PV is the same price as their Jura (so I would choose the latter) but the duty could be less.

When I had a custom weave done, around a decade ago, I was hit with the import duty, which was a couple hundred dollars as I recall.

[The Wizard of BC]

Marton Mills is capable of weaving as little as 11 meters double-width but they do include this disclaimer -
"Due to the nature of the weaving process, it is not always possible to weave the exact amount required. To achieve the minimum length ordered, it may be necessary to produce up to 15% more and the customer must be prepared to accept such additional quantity at the same price."

They also state -
"Please note, bespoke orders now require a 50% deposit prior to weaving. Once this payment has been received, along with yarn shade and design approval, the order will be processed."

My note - They do not charge any extra for these yarn shade or design approvals. If you want them to design your Tartan or request a CAD design with actual yarn samples there may be a separate one-time charge.

They send this price lists out only to their trade customers but they will quote you a price if asked.

The Bespoke sample lengths as of the 1 Oct. 14 price list is
Balmoral - 12oz P/V - 11-25meters = £39.00
Bute - 13oz Wool - 11-25 meters = £39.00
Jura - 16oz Wool - 11-25meters = £39.00

This comes out to $69.24 Canadian or $61.22 US per meter, Double-width, at today's exchange rate. If ordered through a kilt shop there would of course be some retail mark-up. Check with your local kiltmaker for their pricing.

They state right up front that there are no extra set up costs or hidden costs. You can request a flurocarbon and Teflon coating but the surcharge for these is plainly listed.

There is of course shipping, duty, and any applicable tax on top of this price.
This price is not confidential to trade customers although most of Marton Mills sales are to the trade. It is the same price for all bespoke Karl Myer warped fabrics. Check with your local kiltmaker for their pricing.

The only time an extra expense would be encountered would be for colors that would require a custom dye lot. I have the fabric swatch books so I usually pick my yarn colors right from the existing swatches.

I have now ordered 23 custom runs from Marton Mills spanning the last 12 years. Some of these were my own designs and some designs from my customers. All you need is the thread count.
The price has always been exactly as stated. Over time there have, of course, been price increases but the stated price has always been exactly what I paid.