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  1. #2
    Join Date
    24th September 04
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    Victoria, BC Canada 48° 25' 47.31"N 123° 20' 4.59" W
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    Aye, there are. Very distinct differences.

    The length of a suit or sport coat is usually long, about the bottom of the buttocks. This is to hide the pucker caused by the legs of trousers.

    A coat cut for a kilt is shorter. About the crest of the butt and hips. This length does not hide the pleats of the kilt.
    A kilt cut coat will also be cut away in the front to make room for the sporran.
    They will normally have two side vents in back to give a smooth rear across the pleats.

    Other then these differences the names of the jackets come from the cuff treatment.

    These names are not standard among makers but these are perhaps the most common.

    Left to right
    A single button on a closed cuff is called a Crail.
    The gauntlet cuff is called an Argyle.
    The placket style is called a Braemer.


    What we have come to think of as an Argyle is usually has a single button front closure. Before the current standardization you could find two and sometimes even three button fronts. The sporran cut-away causes no end of problems when you try to convert a regular, long sport or suit coat to a kilt jacket due to the lower buttonhole location.
    Another problem is the pocket placement. A suit or sport coats pockets are lower. When you cut off the bottom to convert a sport coat to kilt length the pockets usually appear too low or too near the bottom.

    There are two newer kilt jackets which are becoming popular. They are the Wallace cut and the Kilt Kut suit coat.

    Both have straighter, three button fronts, no epaulettes and no scalloping or buttoning of the pocket flaps.
    The Kilt Kut Suit Coat has a true, three button open cuff, and is cut a bit fuller for N. American tastes.



    Last edited by Steve Ashton; 9th October 16 at 01:37 AM.
    Steve Ashton
    Forum Owner

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