Military Box Pleats

**Michael A** · 5th July 17, 02:01 AM

Yes I understand why we do the steeking, but a trad box pleat is "steeked" (is "steek" a strong or week verb, as I usually only see it as the gerund?) a different way to a knife pleat. But given the deliberate overlap of the wrong side of the pleats for a military box pleat, it would be sensible to do it the same way as knife pleats, I think.

**Barb T** · 5th July 17, 05:49 AM

The way I learned box pleating from Matt Newsome, the steeking is done without cutting out the pleats - no need to because there isn't the bulk of a trad knife pleated kilt. So, the steeking doesn't do the same thing in a box pleated kilt because there are no cut-out pleats to keep from sagging. The main thing that the steeking in a box pleated kilt does it to provide strain relief across the stitching at the bottom of the fell. in the pics below, the pleat stitching is behind the long horizontal threads, so any horizontal stress at that point is partly supported by the floating thread and not entirely by the pleat stitching.

**Michael A** · 5th July 17, 05:59 AM

Yes I do that too for traditional box pleats, as per Matt's and your book.

But I was asking about military box pleats, with significant overlap, so it would be probably like knife pleat steeking.

**Barb T** · 5th July 17, 06:03 AM

Yes, sorry. I thought Steve answered that question. I would do the steeking the same as a knife pleated kilt. I was just clarifying for others who read these posts what the purpose of the steeking in a box pleated kilt is.

**Michael A** · 5th July 17, 06:20 AM

Oh sorry. All good.

**figheadair** · 6th July 17, 11:14 PM

There is of course no need to line (seeking) a 4-5 yard box pleated kilt. It wasn't done in early kilts. I have two 5-yard kilts neither of which is lined.

**Michael A** · 6th July 17, 11:52 PM

Originally Posted by figheadair

There is of course no need to line (seeking) a 4-5 yard box pleated kilt. It wasn't done in early kilts. I have two 5-yard kilts neither of which is lined.

Lining and steeking are different things. Steeking (in a 4 yard box pleat) is to reduce lateral stress on the wool and in a high yardage knife pleat to prevent sagging of the pleats. lining is cotton (usually - I am doing a silk one next week) to make it more comfortable and absorb some sweat (for comfort). Canvas against the skin (or even through a shirt) can irritate the skin.