Please be very cautious when measuring a kilt designed to be worn in the military style.
We talk about the length of a kilt but this word 'length' means different things to different people.
In a kilt made in the traditional manner (AKA "The Art of Kiltmaking"), and the military manner, the Drop is measured from the center of the top strap - down to the bottom of the hem.
There is then either 2 or 3 inches of kilt above the top strap. This is called "The Rise".
The total length of the kilt from the top of the top band, down to the hem is Drop + Rise.
Kilts made in the traditional and military manner are not worn at the level of the navel. In fact the navel is in different places on different guys so is a very poor way of measuring for a kilt. Most kiltmakers take measurements based on the bones which do not change position.
All traditional and military style kilts are designed for the top straps to cinch into the anatomical waist or right up at the bottom of the ribs. The Rise on these kilts goes up, over the ribs. Up at Kidney level.
If you want to use the front of the body the top of one of these kilts will be about two to four finger widths below the bottom of the breast bone.
For example - I am exactly 6 Feet Tall. If I measure from my navel I would take a kilt 23 inches long. If I measure at my anatomical waist it is 24 inches. My traditional kilt is 25 inches from the top to the top band down to the hem.
Another factor that is not often talked about is the Fell Area. This is the part in the back of the kilt that is tapered and sewn down. The bottom of the Fell should hit the body right at the crest of the buttocks and hips. If the bottom of the Fell is higher or lower the pleats will splay outward or create shower curtain folds.
This is what happens so often when guys try to wear a traditional kilt down at the hips. The bottom of the Fell drops below the hips and the back of the kilt ends up with shower curtain folds.
If you wish to wear your kilt lower than the ribs you will need to get a kilt designed to be worn there. I'm afraid that a military kilt will not be able to be worn like this.
Steve Ashton
www.freedomkilts.com
Skype (webcam enabled) thewizardofbc
I wear the kilt because: Swish + Swagger = Swoon.
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