Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy Carbomb
I've only made ONE leather kilt, and there is a HUGE difference in making them as compared to the "material" ones. Here are the things to consider:

1). There are leathers that are MORE than heavy enough for a kilt that are not that thick. With the layers in the pleating and the dual aprons, you really don't need much.
2). There SHOULD be a whole lot less sewing with leather than with material. A properly treated leather will keep its form, while material wanders. That conservation in thread actually makes them easier... not harder.
3). The areas of attention for sewing are limited to the hips, taper, and waist. Remember that the thread MUST be synthetic. As natural fiber threads contract and expand... so will the leather... to extreme!
4). The front apron is a HUGE problem with curling at the tips. A simple traditional tapering, a proper sew-up to hug the edges, and a wider apron will make this problem non-existant.
5). NOTHING is easier than the care for a leather kilt. If you've ever had a saddle, then you'll know that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
6). Take your time when making a leather kilt. IF you're using a machine, then you'll go through a few needles since the leather will dull them quickly. The power of the machine is a non-factor. The needles and the slow speed of sewing are the tricks.
7). Would I make another leather kilt? That's an emphatic YES. The thing took me no time to make, and looked GREAT with the formal pleat depth, formal pleat width, and the three buckles.
~Think about using a suede leather when you do one. It's an unbelievable look in the daylight. You MAY even be able to find a suede with a "backing". This is usually a thin, woven backing that's soft to the skin.
Jimmy addressing your points I will add the following;
1) I use 2.25- 3 oz/sqft leather for my kilts. They have the right amount of weight and have an excellent swish factor.
2) There is almost the same amount of sewing if not more as I top stitch each pleat. This in turn gives it a rugged knife edge look, keeps the pleat. In truth, there is more sewing because, where are you going to get a cow that's going to give you 6yds of leather in one long piece (OK maybe Texas). You have to piece it together. It takes 1.5 hides to build one of my kilts and takes a few more hours than my contemporary kilts to make. 3) I use the same math as the traditional kilts for taper, waist and hip as well as the kick out on the bottom of the apron to prevent curl. I use a #69 nylon thread and burn the ends to prevent fraying.
4)I have reconfigured the front apron to prevent the curl so it hangs just right.
5) I agree cleaning is a breeze and glycerene soap works well for your deep cleening needs, a mink oil or aussie paste will restore the suppleness.
6) I built the first few kilts on a 1929 straight stitch singer and yes I went through some needles. I now have a walking foot industrial machine and it handles all the pleats without a problem and no broken needles. This is a dream machine and a must if you are going to do some serious building of leather kilts.
I like the three strap closure and I use premium bridal leather and edge stitch that as well to prevent too much stretching. Solid buckles as well complete the look.
The leather I use is fully dyed and has a nice soft suede to the skin.
The weight of the finished kilt is around 4lbs. about the same as a traditional 16oz tank. (That includes a full under apron and over apron)
They are easy to care for roll them up in a ball a quick shake and the kilt is as good as the day it was made.
I really love these babies! Almost as good as a tank! or next best thing!
Cheers
Robert