New Kicks

[thescot]

. . .
It's interesting that the website calls them "Wingtip Oxfords". There is nothing about these that would fit the Oxford category. . . .

Actually, I believe the term is "blucher" or "blucher oxford," for the wing tips shown, or at least it used to be. A long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away, (when dinosaurs roamed the earth and I was a young teenager), I sold shoes. Shoes of this type were marked "BLU OX" and were just a bit less dressy that a "balmoral oxford."

Then you get into what some would say about "balmoral," that it only refers to the boot style of shoe whose laces are like the "oxford," originally designed for Prince Albert (hence the name).

It all gets very confusing, and it even depends on where you are doing your talking and to whom. When I was selling shoes as a young lad, "oxford" loosely referred to any lace-up shoe; the blucher oxford had the flap type lacing structure while the balmoral did not.

But no matter--I like those shoes a lot! Wish they had them in big boy sizes. LOL

[Tobus]

Actually, I believe the term is "blucher" or "blucher oxford," for the wing tips shown, or at least it used to be. A long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away, (when dinosaurs roamed the earth and I was a young teenager), I sold shoes. Shoes of this type were marked "BLU OX" and were just a bit less dressy that a "balmoral oxford."

Then you get into what some would say about "balmoral," that it only refers to the boot style of shoe whose laces are like the "oxford," originally designed for Prince Albert (hence the name).

It all gets very confusing, and it even depends on where you are doing your talking and to whom. When I was selling shoes as a young lad, "oxford" loosely referred to any lace-up shoe; the blucher oxford had the flap type lacing structure while the balmoral did not.

But no matter--I like those shoes a lot! Wish they had them in big boy sizes. LOL

Yes, it very much does depend on who one is talking to! When manufacturers can't even use the terminology consistently or correctly, everybody else is bound to get confused.

Calling any lace-up shoe an Oxford only serves to render the term meaningless. It does mean something important in the construction, and with all due respect, if a shoe salesman didn't know the difference, I'd not be buying shoes from him.

The shoes that the OP is talking about have an open-lace design. By definition, they cannot be Oxfords. The construction of this shoe has elements of both a Blucher and a Derby, whilst not fully satisfying either of those definitions to a tee. I do happen to agree with you that these could be considered Bluchers, if one wanted to look at them that way. Derby, Blucher, I'd be fine with either of those. But not an Oxford in any way.

[OC Richard]

What I've noticed is that with wingtips or plain shoes or in this case cap-toe/punch cap shoes, the pieces that have the holes are sometimes stitched onto the body of the shoe (left) and sometimes inset into the body of the shoe (right).

I have no idea what these styles are called, if anything.

[kingandrew]

Richard,

I've seen the ones with the sewn-on parts called bluchers and the others called balmorals. The video Tobus posted will give you lots of details on the distinctions.

But it is very hard to find any consistency in the way manufacturers label these shoes. Leaving those of us who buy and wear shoes very confused.

Andrew

[Me cousin Jack]

I like these wingtips
https://thursdayboots.com/products/m...ion=mens-boots

[FossilHunter]

Congrats on the purchase, Taffy Jack. That's a decent looking shoe for out-of-doors activities. It's very similar to the pair that Shaun Maxwell wears to the Highland Games around here. They look to me like oil-tanned leather. They won't take a polish, but can be well maintained with mink oil paste or similar products to keep them water-resistant and prevent the leather from drying/cracking. It will also give them a medium sheen if buffed well, although not a high shine.

It's interesting that the website calls them "Wingtip Oxfords". There is nothing about these that would fit the Oxford category. I won't profess to be a shoe style expert, but I would call them more of a "longwing derby semi-brogue" (or perhaps even quarter brogue, since the cap is not brogued). But eh, that's a mouthful. Whatever you want to call them, I hope you enjoy them!

One thing I've noticed on the department store websites is that nearly all dress shoes are called oxfords. It makes it hard to shop for genuine oxford laced shoes specifically. Macy's even has "monk strap oxfords."

https://www.macys.com/shop/featured/mens-oxford-shoes

[Taffy Jack]

Some are second hand and some are hobnailed. Avoid hobnails for town wear as they can esaily slip.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...ogues&_sacat=0

Having invested hundreds of hours of my non-refundable life into salvaging, re-milling, nailing, sanding and finishing a maple floor, I'm permanently and quite adamantly opposed to hobnailed shoes or caulk boots in my house.

Ever.

[Mel1721L]

Having invested hundreds of hours of my non-refundable life into salvaging, re-milling, nailing, sanding and finishing a maple floor, I'm permanently and quite adamantly opposed to hobnailed shoes or caulk boots in my house.

Ever.

I used to wear them in my teens as an Air Cadet. Used to skate all over the place in them, still the Guards seem to manage. Anyway, I certainly see your point.

[Taffy Jack]

The shoes that the OP is talking about have an open-lace design. By definition, they cannot be Oxfords. The construction of this shoe has elements of both a Blucher and a Derby, whilst not fully satisfying either of those definitions to a tee. I do happen to agree with you that these could be considered Bluchers, if one wanted to look at them that way. Derby, Blucher, I'd be fine with either of those. But not an Oxford in any way.

Thanks for that informative video!

I grew up with an awareness of precisely three (3) categories of men's shoes (because sandals and slippers don't count): 1) dress shoes; 2) sneakers; 3) boots. Due to life paths fallen into along the way, my awareness of boot styles far exceeds my awareness of shoe styles. In all honesty, for years I thought the name for dress shoes was "wingtip" and that it meant "weird-looking grandpa shoes with funny little holes."

So I've got one of those new shoes next to me as I type this. It's _definitely_ not a closed lace Oxford. I have a pair of those, capped, in black. They're brutally uncomfortable, but they take a nice shine (as I recall from army Oxfords, the top of my left foot has nerve issues that are exacerbated by shoes of this type). I've been wearing them for funerals and black tie events for years, even in uniform as they are much sharper than the issue shoes (I also replaced the "four in hand" uniform tie with a deep black silk tie; no one ever called me out on it).

Per the video, if I'm lookin' at 'em right, these brown ones seem to be closer to bluchers than derbies. Both the lace flap appliques and the wings wrap all the way to the back, but are stitched to the surface of the shoe body. As for broguing, it runs consistently along the bottoms of the lace flap pieces and the tops of the wings (extending also across the back of the toe cap), but there's no punch work or stitching on the toe cap itself.

Also, on second look, they're a bit harder-finished than I first realized. I can get an NCO-level brown shine on these, though I'm not convinced it would be an improvement.

Thanks for the shoe dope. I learned something here.

Cheers,

Jack

[Tobinn]

too bad they don't come in a 9.5 W