Argyle Jacket question

[kingandrew]

Living in China, I have easier access to a tailor, which has given me a couple of options.

I had an argyll jacket and waistcoat made for my by Yuen Tailors in Hong Kong. They are the tailors who used to outfit the Highland regiments serving there when it was a British colony, so they specialize in kilt wear. Although the jacket and vest are tweed, I selected a "summer weight" tweed from one of the many fabric books they had available. So although the pattern is a lovely mossy greed with red and blue overcheck and looks very traditional, it is comfortable in quite warm weather (which we get about 9-10 months of the year in the HK area. The climate is similar to Miami). For warmer events, I can wear just the jacket and usually be OK.

When I lived in Beijing, I had my tailor whip up an argyll style jacket made of 100% cotton shirting fabric in a kelly green shade. The jacket is unlined, to be as cool as possible. This jacket works in even the warmest weather and really does look good, although it is of course a bit rumpled at the end of the day.

So if you have access to an affordable tailor, you might explore doing something similar. Given the high price of even ready-made kiltwear, it might be a plausible option.

What Price Glory sells repros of the British army tropical uniform jackets of the past. I have given thought to picking up one of the Scottish-style jackets (all-cotton khaki), but haven't done so yet. However, these jackets should be comfortable (I have a pair of shorts from the company in the same material that are excellent) and the price is very reasonable. Such a jacket would also look very stylish with my pith helmet. So that may be worth investigating.

It's not so much the wool as the weight of the material and the tightness of the weave that will make a jacket hot or cooler. Also, watch out for the linings. The best jackets use bemberg (which is made of cotton waste) or silk linings, but many off the rack jackets will have acetate or polyester, which are just plastics and about as breathable as a Glad bag. So take a look at the label info for the lining as well as the main jacket material, if you are looking to keep cool. An unlined jacket will be hard to find, but will be cooler still.

Andrew