
Originally Posted by
HeeHeeHeeHaw
I love balmorals and caubeens but I can't find any of quality I've been scouring the web for a few days but I've had no success. Any recommendations?
Caps are not difficult to make if you want to try your hand at DIY. I've made various costumes over the years and it seems easy enough once you get the basic concept. If you try it out with scrap fabric first it should become clear - but always go for a bit bigger if in doubt as once its cut you are usually stuck with that size.
Depending how large you want the circumference you cut two discs of the main fabric marking the exact centre of one so you can cut out a circle for the head hole. Measure your head around where you want the cap to sit and you can work out the diameter of the finished hole - divide the diameter by pi - my head is 22.5 inches so the diameter would be a smidge over 7 inches. You need a sturdy edge so a 6 inch diameter hole leaves a 1/2 inch seam allowance.
The outer edges of the two discs are joined, but need a smaller seam allowance so that the fabric at the edge is not thick and liable to twist. You need to assess the cohesion of the fabric and work accordingly so the edge doesn't fray. Two lines of stitching or overlocking the very edge and then making a seam close to the inner edge is usually a good option.
You then make a lining. That will be a lighter fabric so a larger seam allowance and a slightly smaller finished size is what to aim for. Sewing both layers of the seam allowance to the lower disc of the lining keeps it from showing on the upper disc. It might need to be snipped to release the tension, or trimmed narrower so it doesn't distort the edge.
The main fabric outer is turned so the seam on the outer rim is inside, the lining is inserted so the seam allowance is between the two layers.
If you tack (put in temporary stitches) around the head hole joining the outer and lining you can see how it will look when worn. Turn the head hole seam allowance out and stretch it gently. Wool fabric will distort under pressure so a light spray of water and a bit of patience should make the correct shape, and the lighter lining fabric should distort enough but if not cut off a little bit and try again. (That is LITTLE, I mean it)
The headband looks to be about 1and 1/2 inches on a caubeen, when finished and it is either a straight strip of the main fabric on the outside or a diced ribbon.
On the inside is needs a sturdy tape but something comfortable against the skin, usually sewn in by hand so easy to remove for replacement if necessary. The join can be hidden behind a bit of the cut out circle fabric used to support a badge, if required, or centre back. A Balmoral has a narrower edge, so binding with inch wide leather would be an option.
That is the basic cap done - it can be embellished and shaped to suit whatever you fancy.
I presume to dictate to no man what he shall eat or drink or wherewithal he shall be clothed."
-- The Hon. Stuart Ruaidri Erskine, The Kilt & How to Wear It, 1901.
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