1820's style tailored plaid question

[Pleater]

Ah - I was assuming that the length, that is the measurement from waist to the edge would have to be adjusted between the edges, where it falls down, to the middle where it is drawn up to the shoulder (but not quite) - but of course, kits are worn higher so the usual proportions do not apply.

The added complication of pleats at right angles is therefor not required - unless for some reason the plaid would not fall correctly without a bit of fudging.

Anne the Pleater

This garment is what I refer to as a Half Plaid. It is similar to, but not quite the same, as a Drummer's Plaid. Confusingly, at the time they were referred to as a Belted Plaid.

Here's an example of one laid out (Photo: NMS). It was worn in 1822.



They were made from a roughly 3 yard length of single-width cloth that was pleated on one of the long sides. That side was then bound with tapes that extended to form waist ties and a loop added about 2/3 along the other side. The loop fastened to a button on the coat shoulder. Finally, this particular example has a fringed end.

And this is how it looked from behind when worn.

[OC Richard]

Thanks Peter for those photos! So interesting to see the civilian version.

I knew that the military adopted what they called "belted plaids" for Full Dress around 1800 when the little kilt moved from being the soldier's undress/fatigue kilt to being their only kilt when the breacan-an-feileadh was abolished.

The military version, from period images of it being worn, was narrower, not coming round the sides to the front like the one linked to.

At least until Full Dress was abolished in 1914 officers continued to wear this "belted plaid", a complex garment which had purled fringe all around, fastened with an ornate brooch, when kilted. (When in riding breeches officers wore the long plaid which wrapped around the torso.)

This whole time (c1800 to 1914) Other Ranks wore a simpler belted plaid, not fringed, and having a loop at the top which fastened to the left-shoulder epaulette button.