Great kilts were not pleated to anything -- neither was the feilidh-beag.

When kilts first began to be tailored in the 1790s, they were four-yard box pleated kilts, as I have said before on this forum. The earliest one we have is a Gordon Highlanders kilt from 1794, and it is pleated to stripe. All the military kilts up until 1854 were box pleated to stripe (at that date, the Gordond began to knife pleat their kilts, still to stripe).

The earliest tailored civilian kilts were pleated to nothing, but very soon (by about 1820, if I remember correctly) pleating to the stripe also became the norm for civilian kilts. And so it remained until the very end of the century. In 1901 when the book "The Kilt and How to Wear It" was published (see my article on May's Scottish Banner), the author was referring to pleating to the sett as a new style.

All this is to say that for regular civilian kilts you can have them pleated to the sett or stripe, and if you choose to pleat to the stripe, you can specify whatever stripe you want (in most cases).

Aye,
Matt