Canvas Kilt, ACK!!!!

[Canuck]

There are kilt making instructions on the web, I had one bookmarked but it doesn't work at the moment. That being said, I think Steve and I are saying basically the same sort of thing but we approach it slightly differently, or language.
So when you look at your USA kilt flat out and open, you have an over apron, the pleated section and an under apron. So out of your 4 yds at least 23 inches for your over apron and another 23 inches for your under apron. Leaves 98 inches for your pleats. or your desired 18 pleats 5,5 inches for each pleat face and depth. But you need a double pleat on one side (over apron)and a box pleat on the other(under apron), both are double deep pleats so that also has to be taken into account, The pleated section is about half your hip. so the face of the pleated section has to be = to 22 inches. There is a formula of splitting your measurements so that hip measurement could be more in the back than in the front which can make a better fitting kilt. That is covered in Barbs book and some other instructions.
Now some makers will have you do darts in the front and under apron to taper the waist as well as the taper of the pleats in the back. And Steve also tells you where you should taper the pleats.
Once you understand the math you will get the idea.
You can also do this on paper with a scale rule and you can see on paper what you have to do with the fabric.
Most machines can handle the fabric, however the biggest challange with a domestic machine is the waistband on a sewn down kilt as you have a lot of layers to sew through in the pleated section. Use a fresh needle when you get to that part.
Give Steve a call, he offered to talk you through it.
Pleasant dreams and you will wake up at 3:00 AM and have a Ureka moment!
Cheers
Robert

[KiltedCodeWarrior]

There are kilt making instructions on the web, I had one bookmarked but it doesn't work at the moment. That being said, I think Steve and I are saying basically the same sort of thing but we approach it slightly differently, or language....

Robert, I agree that there are instructions on the web and other resources that one can take advantage of, but both you and Steve took the time respond to his question and offer some great advice, and education to the rest of us. I find that laudable. While I do not know the craft of kiltmaking, I am a better than average tailor and from looking at my SK, a casual kilt looks to be a fairly simple garment to put together, MUCH easier than a pair of trousers or even a dress shirt. That does not mean to imply that it takes a needle some thread and 20 minutes, but that the kilt is created from a single piece of cloth with no seams, and getting the pleats and apron correctly sized and arranged appears to be the biggest hurdle.

If I am incorrect, let me know. I have not attempted a kilt yet, but with the wife glaring every time I want to buy another (and I only have 2, so getting another is going to be an issue for quite a while) maybe I should put my money where my mouth is and make my next quilt. Any suggestions from anyone? I have heard Barb's book mentioned, but not sure what that is or where to get it? I would be willing to entertain ideas for a contemporary, solid color kilt to be used for business casual work or informal social occasions, similar to a pair of khaki dockers or the like.

RJI

[Canuck]

Barbs book is available through Celtic Dragon Press I'm sure if you google it you will get it.
It has taken me some time to come up with the design and fit that I am comfortable with. Fabrics play a role and I have made dozens of kilts for myself till I came up with the style I like. I have used about 10-15 resources and I have learned something from everyone. Chatting with other kiltmakers like a few of us did in Philly this year was great. Also listening to folk like yourself in what you want to see in a kilt we will use if we like the idea. No doubt in your search for a kilt, and in fact , possibly a solid colour kilt you will see a unique style that each one of us has. It takes me about 14 hours to put one together, that's not taking into account getting the supplies, hardware etc. Also the equipement. But I did start with a 1929 Singer straight stitch that could just about do everything I do now.
The leather kilts demand a different skill set, lots of planning to make it all come together.
In the end with all the experimenting I did I could have bought a lot of kilts for what I spent in R&D. But what a blast it has been!
There are also resources in your Library so who knows we may see one of your creations soon!
Cheers

[Southern Breeze]

Robert, I agree that there are instructions on the web and other resources that one can take advantage of, but both you and Steve took the time respond to his question and offer some great advice, and education to the rest of us. I find that laudable. While I do not know the craft of kiltmaking, I am a better than average tailor and from looking at my SK, a casual kilt looks to be a fairly simple garment to put together, MUCH easier than a pair of trousers or even a dress shirt. That does not mean to imply that it takes a needle some thread and 20 minutes, but that the kilt is created from a single piece of cloth with no seams, and getting the pleats and apron correctly sized and arranged appears to be the biggest hurdle.

If I am incorrect, let me know. I have not attempted a kilt yet, but with the wife glaring every time I want to buy another (and I only have 2, so getting another is going to be an issue for quite a while) maybe I should put my money where my mouth is and make my next quilt. Any suggestions from anyone? I have heard Barb's book mentioned, but not sure what that is or where to get it? I would be willing to entertain ideas for a contemporary, solid color kilt to be used for business casual work or informal social occasions, similar to a pair of khaki dockers or the like.

RJI

The name of the book is The Art Kiltmaking.http//www.celticdragonpress.com.
The price is 29.95 US.Worth every penny!

[chasem]

Barb's book is fantastic! I'm finishing up my first kilt following the book now, and while it's not perfect, I'm satisfied with my work so far.

I'm using the Hunting Stewart from here which is not the best material for it, but it wasn't bad for the price, for a first attempt.

Now I just need to get some 16oz MacEwen tartan

[KiltedCodeWarrior]

Robert, Southern Breeze, and Chasem,

Thanks for the responses. I will check out getting a copy of Barb's book tomorrow.

Robert, I have been looking over your site, and maybe my third paycheck of this month needs to go toward an rkilt! I am checking out the finances and will let you know.

RJI (KCW)

[The Wizard of BC]

Just remember that Barb's book is about the art of TRADITIONAL kilts.
The are of Contemporary kilts is another whole animal.
Unfortunatly everyone will have to wait till next year before the difinitive work
"The Art of Contemporary Kilts" is published.
It will cover modern fabrics, pockets, machine sewing, and the design features of the contemporary styles.

[KiltedCodeWarrior]

Steve,

Glad to hear it and I look forward to it.

RJI

[bubba]

Steve, I'll be waiting for your book.