Brushed fabric is fine for blankets, jackets, cloaks, but I have found that the best swinging pleats are made with a hard surfaced cloth, as there is no clinging of surfaces.

I have bought cloth brushed on one side which is a wool and acrylic mixture, and been able to press it with a hot iron to flatten and smooth the brushed side, but it is an added complication - though the cloth was very cheap when compared with 'proper' kilt fabrics.

I have used all cotton cloth with a slight fuzz, but smooth it with spray starch when ironing.

It is also far easier to sew a kilt where the individual threads of the cloth can be seen - yes, I follow one individual thread for the outer fold of the pleats and find it is worth the effort to get a truly straight edge.