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Thread: Sewing Machines

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  1. #1
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    Here in the UK we can't get some Singer parts now - it might be advisable to check that availablity of spares for your chosen machine, though I have had my machine about 30 years and never needed a spare part.

    The day will come, eventually.

    My machines - the sewing machine and the overlocker, are both Janome and have proven very efficient and durable.

    The sewing machine is entirely mechanical - due to its age - and it has a useful range of straight and swing needle stitches, and some simple embroidery stitches. It was quite expensive at the time, but it has lasted well.

    The only thing it lacks is an automatic buttonhole sewer, which I would recomend having, as it does make things so much easier.

    You can buy more basic machines, but they are often sourced from different factories, possibly in different countries to the higher spec. ones - so you are not really getting a lesser version of the more expensive ones, you are getting the cheapest that can be got anywhere and still pass the regulations on safety.

    Don't be talked into a lightweight - I can't see the logic of having a machine so light that it can be dragged off the table by the weight of the cloth it is sewing. Few healthy adults are so feeble that they can't pick up a normal sewing machine, and if they are they ought to get more exercise.

    You can sometimes find a medium range machine on offer with a pack of accessories included, which is worth looking out for as they can be expensive to buy. Feet for making a rolled hem, applying ribbon or tape to an edge, holding buttons etc are all useful.

    This year, so far, as well as making kilts I have made new curtains for the front of the house, and a dress, plus petticoats.

    The sewing machine was set up when we moved here - about the third day after the move, and has been put away for about two days in the intervening 25 years. A good sewing machine is a great investment as it helps in making clothes and keeping them repaired.

  2. #2
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    Used machines aren't always the best bet. Some of the domestic machines (particularly the less expensive ones) made in the last 50 years weren't built to last - they had flimsy or plastic parts, etc. Over time, the tensioners get flabby, parts get worn and misaligned, etc. This isn't true of the more expensive Husqvarna Vikings, Elnas, Pfaffs, and Berninas (my Bernina is over 30 years old and I haven't had one lick of trouble with it), but I have to say it is true of some of the older and cheaper Singers that were around when I bought my Bernina.

    So, my advice for buying a used machine is to take along someone who is experienced in sewing to "test drive" the machine for you. Take along a bunch of different types of fabric, and have the person try out every stitch, needle position, and accessory. Make sure that the tensioner actually works and produces a stitch that locks in the center of the fabric. Take some difficult fabric and make sure that the machine doesn't skip stitches. Make sure all the adjustments work as well. Chances are, if it doesn't work on the test drive, you're not likely to resurrect it, and you don't want the frustration that comes from a machine that won't stitch properly!

    And, if I were buying a used machine, I'd either go with a really old workhorse as mentioned above (my 1910 White treadle sewing machine still works fine, although it doesn't sew backwards, and I can still get bobbins and needles to fit!!) or pay a bit more and go for a well-taken-care-of Bernina, Elna, or Husqvarna. There's a reason that my Bernina came with a 25 year guarantee....

    Cheers,

    Barb
    Last edited by Barb T; 6th April 06 at 05:49 AM.

  3. #3
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    my wife has a Singer Merit. is that a decent machine? does anyone know anything about that particular model?
    Last edited by Heath; 6th April 06 at 05:50 AM. Reason: mispelling

  4. #4
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    Don't know about that one in particular. My comments were meant to be mostly generic, and Singer _has_ made lots of good machines over the years. Some of the cheaper ones that were available about the time I got my Bernina (in the 70s), though, weren't particularly well made. If your machine works, I'd keep using it regardless of what kind it is! If you're in the market for a used machine, though, you just have to be aware that some older machines haven't worn well. A thorough testing should save you from buying something that won't do the job.

    Barb

  5. #5
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    25th September 04
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    Victoria, BC, Canada 1123.6536.5321
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    If I may second Barb's comments.

    I have five machines in my shop. 6 if you count the serger that my wife uses for her dolls.

    Of those, the two industrial Pfaff machines, which were made in '63 and '68, are dedicated to Kiltmaking. One is a Janome 10001 embroidery maching for logos and special buttonholes. One is a 25 yr old Janome. One a 35 year old Bernina, and one is a 50 yr old singer.

    All but the singer have knee lifts which I consider a neccessity.

    Find an older, heavy basic machine. Check carefully for worn parts. Especially the needle bars. If worn, a needle bar will cause stitches to waver. It is the part that holds the needle and rides up and down in a race. This part is, if not the heart of a maching, the arms and legs, and the one thing which if worn will cost as much as a new machine to replace.
    To check it, grasp the bar just above the needle and try to move it side to side, and front to back. Kinda like checking the wheel bearings on your car. If there is any movement, pass it by.

    The second thing to check is the drive system. A strong motor will do no good if the drive is by a loose or worn belt or worn gears. (I prefer gears.)

    You don't need fancy stitches. No electronics. Just a good old machine that does straight, zig-zag, and that has a foot that will lift as high as you can find. At least 1/2". There are times when your going to be sewing thru 8-12, or more, layers of fabric, and most machines won't lift the foot that high.

    See if there is some old codger in your area that has been fixing machines for the last million years and sit with him over a cup of coffee. (you buy) He knows machines inside out and is far more knowlagable than the nice lady in the fancy quilting shop at the mall.

    In fact stay away from any shop that has anything to do with quilting. Almost the entire sewing industry is in trouble today due to nobody sewing anymore.
    Quilting is the newest fad. but Quilting machines are very light, very suited to women sewing one or two things during their "hobby" hours, and totally unsuited for what you will need. (I'm not knocking women or their "hobby' work. so please don't kill me for that last comment. It's that the two requirements for machines are completly different )
    Steve Ashton
    www.freedomkilts.com
    Skype (webcam enabled) thewizardofbc
    I wear the kilt because:
    Swish + Swagger = Swoon.

  6. #6
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    I don't sew (although I've thought about it if I am able to get some "leisure" time somday . . . whatever that is!), but my wife received a Husqvarna as a wedding present (1978) . . . don't have any idea which model, but my recollection is that it was at least middle of the line. My wife and daughter have had some complaints about it, and we've had it in the shop several times over the past several years with just light use, and it doesn't seem to ever be quite right. I understand that Husqvarna overall has an excellent reputation, so ours might have been a fluke.

    I think the Wiz's comment about buying a beverage for the local repairman is an excellent idea.

    Mark

  7. #7
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    Thw two machines I use is an old, old black Singer from sometimes around the 1950's. It's strong and reliable and thre's nothing like it for drop-dead reliable straight stitch. It will also sew in reverse. But to do zig zag or buttonholes you need these arcane little foot attachments, and I've never really used the ones I have.

    The machine that I use for Zig-zag is my wifes Husqvarna. It's a Viking and is one of the first computerized models, though it only has about twenty decorative stitches.

    For kilts (and light sailmaking, the other thing I do...and boat canvaswork) you need:

    !. rock-solid straight stitch.
    2. zig-zag
    3. buttonholer

    and if you can get it, a serging stitch to finish off raw edges.

    All else is fru-fru.
    Last edited by Alan H; 6th April 06 at 06:14 PM.

  8. #8
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    Thanks guys, that helps a lot. So to break it down, I need a machine that does staight stitches, has a reverse, and has a foot that can lift up at least 1/2". I should look for a machine that is not made of plastic. I will consider some of the other brands that were named, but any new ones are probably out of my price range. I found a local sewing & vacuum shop that's been around for38 years. I may drop by on Saturday to see what they have.

    Is there anything else I need to look for? Accessories, feet?

    Thanks

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Listening in.

    I'm curious to know what kind of machine to snag for the wife and I. We're getting into the RenFaire game, and both of us have decided to make our own garb.

    Right now, we've got a Singer. Not sure what model. I know it works great when I make shirts, but it stresses when I make kilts. The arm is also too stinkin' short. I wish the arm were 6" longer. As it is, I have to roll my kilt quite a bit to stitch up my pleats. Drives me crazy.

    So... I'm personally after a machine that makes rock solid straight stitches, reverse stitches, button holes, has a long arm, and will stitch through fairly thick materials (such as multiple layers of vinyl or brocade). What am I looking at here. New or old.

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