I once saw a guide to putting on a great kilt. It was old, and based on one of the earlier kilt texts. It made no mention of sett or stripe, just to pleat it as a means to wear that much fabric comfortably. The great kilt was used as a blanket/rain gear/tent/anything you can use a whole lot of woll for.

It wouldn't suprise me if with research it was found that pleating to sett or stripe came from royalty somewhere in efforts to differentiate themselves from the commoners.

As to the question at hand, I would personally follow Rocky's advice.