Hems and pleat pressing

[way2fractious]

...wool blend kilt... Would it be advisable to re-hem the bottom? Is it possible to press out the crease from the original bottom hem with a regular steam iron and then press in the pleats at the bottom without damaging the fabric?

The length is your preference, although the way you describe it sounds fine. Any longer and the hem would hit the sensitive skin behind the knees (not good for extended periods.)

Pressing out a hem on 100% wool is done routinely with kilts of dancing and growing youngsters. Steaming wool fibers makes them relax completely and they can be reshaped. Wool blend may be tougher because of the synthetic fibers. You could try "pressing out" the crease of, say, the inside of the inverted pleat beneath the underapron. A damp pressing cloth and steam iron are required to both protect the wool and to prevent melting the synthetics. If the results are unsatisfactory, merely press the crease back in and wear it as is. If the results are satisfactory, by all means re-hem it.

[Scottish Chi]

Pressing out a hem on 100% wool is done routinely with kilts of dancing and growing youngsters. Steaming wool fibers makes them relax completely and they can be reshaped. Wool blend may be tougher because of the synthetic fibers. You could try "pressing out" the crease of, say, the inside of the inverted pleat beneath the underapron. A damp pressing cloth and steam iron are required to both protect the wool and to prevent melting the synthetics. If the results are unsatisfactory, merely press the crease back in and wear it as is. If the results are satisfactory, by all means re-hem it.

Good suggestion. I'll give this a try first before doing any permanent damage. The synthetic fibers in the blend could give some trouble and get shiny on me even with using steam and a damp cloth. Serves me right for not buying 100% wool in the first place. But it was my first kilt. All part of the learning process. In the meantime I'll check the length again. I certainly don't want to look "trollopy" or "tarty" while quaffing my stout.

Cheers! Bill

[Pleater]

Iron on the inside, press on the outside using a cloth.

When ironing you move the iron acros the garment, when pressing you just press, and adjusting the pressure to the fabric composition is advisable.

I have regularly remade my kilts, and have learned to undo the stitching and then iron the fabric until it is flat, showing no remnant of the pressing of the previous incarnation, or the pleats will not lie down properly.

I then measure for the new size and put in safety pins top and bottom so I can fold the fabric and press the fold on what will be the inside face of the pleat before starting to sew.

If you work on the inside of the hem to first flatten the fabric - go slowly and use minimum heat, turn the dial up little by little so you reach the point where the heat will take out the folds without melting any man made fibre in the fabric.

Then fold the hem, press it lightly and sew it in place, and then press the folds once the sewing is done.

If you pin the hem don't iron or press over the pins or you will get a mark in the fabric.

[Scottish Chi]

[QUOTE=Pleater]
If you work on the inside of the hem to first flatten the fabric - go slowly and use minimum heat, turn the dial up little by little so you reach the point where the heat will take out the folds without melting any man made fibre in the fabric.

Then fold the hem, press it lightly and sew it in place, and then press the folds once the sewing is done.
QUOTE]

Thanks,
I will keep a damp cloth on the fabric when pressing with the steam iron in all steps and turn the iron up gradually as you suggest.

My knowledge of sewing is pretty much limited to whip stitch. Where would you suggest I look for instructions for sewing with different stitches for a hem?

Cheers, Bill

[bubba]

Check your public library for the Readers Digest Complete Guide to Sewing.

[Pleater]

Try to pick a dark line in the tartan - if relevant, to sew along, and get a thread which is a good match to the colour. Go for a slightly darker shade rather than a lighter one as it will show far less.

A polyester thread is slightly elastic, so less likely to snap if pulled, but can be slippery and move in the seam. I prefer a polyester cotton mix if I can get it. Once sewn it seems to remain where it was put.

Don't be surprised of you quickly aquire quite a number of different spools of sewing thread, plus numerous needles of different types, the 'good' scissors you need for cutting cloth and the snips for the thread, tape measures, hem gauges, boxes of pins, and an amazing amount of other stuff.

My thread collection fills two large tins originally aquired full of chocolates for Christmases past, I have a large plastic tool box plus the boxes for the sewing machine accesories and all the bobbins with thread wound on them.

Once you get over a certain mass I think it acts as a black hole and sucks things in.

[Scottish Chi]

Check your public library for the Readers Digest Complete Guide to Sewing.

Just checked and it is not available. Next stop is the used book store and then online for a search. Sounds like a good book for the home library. Reader's Digest usually has a pretty good product.

Then a trip to the local fabric shop for thread and to browse.

Cheers! Bill

[way2fractious]

The Readers Digest Complete Guide to Sewing can be obtained at any Borders Books or Barnes & Noble or ordered through Amazon.