Traditional 8 yard kilt or 5 yard kilt

**auld argonian** · 15th July 06, 09:21 AM

As it has been mentioned in earlier threads, aren't the terms five-yard and eight-yard a little nebulous...that the size of the wearer and the sett of the tartan can be factors in how much material is being used...

...it might be better in this case to try to figure the depth and number of the pleats. I mean, I have some wool material that I picked up and have decided that I don't really have the skills or time to try to sew my own kilt and that I'll probably try to retain the services of one of the kiltmakers to turn this into kilts. The tartan is probably not a "true" one and I'm thinking that the sett is relatively small...I expect that the discussion about turning this into kilts will be whether it's pleated to the sett or the stripe and the depth and number of the pleats. Since it's not a real heavyweight material, I think that as many pleats as possible would be the better option. Whether this turns out to be six yards of material or eight...obviously this will depend.

Perhaps it might be more accurate to consider these numbers in the making of possingk's kilt.

Best

AA

**MacWage** · 15th July 06, 10:14 AM

Basic notions:
Neither possingk nor myself are exactly huge folk (at least from his pic).
The sett measurement is unknown until one or the other GETS the material.

The issue is between a 5/6 yarder and 8. THAT is a big difference of about 3/4 yards in back verses 6 or so. A few inches in sett difference will not make THAT HUGE of a difference. Anyways, a sett can could be manipulated either way by striping, cheating, or other manipulation of the layout.

What is at question is the heat level of a 16oz kilt in either smaller (5-6 yards) or "full size" (8-9 yards). What we are wondering is the practical matters.

My question:
Primarily, how much VISUAL and TEMP difference is there between a 6 and 8 heavyweight? Is it primarily a pleat number issue or a depth (in general as we have NO numbers for this sett).
My second kilt is so I can have a more "swinging" kilt for parades, etc. For formality, a 4 yard box pleat is perfect as is (which I am making regardless).
How much different is the look/swing of a heavyweight 6 and 8?
(Now is a good time for Hamish to offer an opinion based on his supplies and experience)

If possingk is after something else, I'll let him speak for himself.

**Pleater** · 15th July 06, 11:56 AM

I know it might all be down to differences in shape, plumposity or even swagger - but I do find that a deep under apron pleat is apt to make for a cooler kilt than a narrow one.

I tend to make kilts in pairs so as to take advantage of the full length of a piece of material and not have a seam.

As I am losing weight I remake the kilts smaller and usually keep the folds of the pleats if I can, just moving them closer together. I then make the aprons smaller by increasing the depth of the under apron pleat.

Wearing a fairly lightweight kilt recently I changed it mid afternoon as I splashed one with orange juice and threw it in the sink to wash. The older incarnation of the kilt was definitely warmer than the newer one. I think the deeper pleats allow more fore and aft movement of the aprons so changing the air of the microclimate within the kilt more frequently. I even folded the aprons back on themselves so they would not cover the pleats the and it made litte difference. (My kilts are belted not buckled so this is possible.)

I suspect the the heavier the kilt the more cooling deep under apron pleats would be, when comparing the same fabric.

**cessna152towser** · 15th July 06, 12:05 PM

I have three 8-yard wool kilts and have to admit it is a good feeling to step out proudly in a real kilt with a proper swing, though at the other extreme lightweight acryllic or polycotton kilts have their own comfort zone. A 5-yarder is somewhere in between inasmuch as it looks and feels like a proper kilt, but once you start walking in it the swing won't be right as the weight of the material is not in correct proportion. I purchased my first 5-yard wool kilt earlier this year - described as a casual kilt suitable for hill walking - if the fine weather keeps up I'll climb a hill in it next week and post some photos. I'd say if you have enough material, keep it for yourself and go for the full 8 yard kilt and buy the wife a denim skirt or jeans.