Well I received a reply from Flight Lieutenant Mackie confirming my eligibility to wear this tartan and samples of the fabric in 13oz and 16oz weights.

All I need to do is place my order. The options are pleated to the sett or pleated to the stripe which is the military style. Although I would be wearing the kilt as a civilian, it is a military tartan so I think it should be pleated to the stripe. That is what I intend to order unless any of you tell me that this would not be appropriate.