Revisions for The Art of Kiltmaking

[Alan H]

MY ENDORSEMENT:

I used Barbara and Elsies book to make my very first heavyweight tartan kilt, and I'm on my way to making two more. That first kilt was a big investment in time, but it was worth it. Without the book it would have taken me three times as long and my kilt wouldn't have been nearly as good. The instructions are clear and understandable, the illustrations are helpful, and the background information on kilts and tartan is very useful. The book is worth every penny of its very modest price.

For the first-time kiltmaker looking to make a traditional kilt or for for someone who wants to see how a very experienced kiltmaker does the job, I heartily recommend this book!

Alan Hebert
San Francisco Bay Area

[beerbecue]

How about some additional tips and tricks?

For example, what to do if your apron edge curls, some illustrations on how to properly iron (I just can't quite visualize that part, I have never before used a ham)

[HeathBar]

I found that using basic cotton thread for the basting was not working for me. It was too thin and wore out quickly. I used the white polyester thread like the regular stitches for the second kilt and found it worked much better.

[Paul Henry]

without meaning to hijack this thread.... but a note for Heath... be very careful about using "strong" thread for basting, one of the reasons for using cotton is that it is more likely to break than the actual fabric, when the basting is removed soft thread is much kinder

[mddock58]

Barb,
Remember to add the pics of you hand stitching the fell! I remember how much that helped those that couldn't quite picture it!

[HeathBar]

without meaning to hijack this thread.... but a note for Heath... be very careful about using "strong" thread for basting, one of the reasons for using cotton is that it is more likely to break than the actual fabric, when the basting is removed soft thread is much kinder

The real problem I had with the cotton thread was that it was unraveling while I was basting and it was bucnhing up as I pulled it through the material. This also made it harder to remove. I also had to use shorter pieces which was a PITA.

[Barb T]

If the thread unravelled and bunched as you pulled it through the fabric, you were using something called "Dual Duty" or cotton-wrapped polyester. It is a nightmare to use, because the cotton wears off the polyester core and makes little slubby bits that get caught in the fabric. Steer clear of it!!

I just buy the cheapest 100% polyester (not cotton-wrapped) thread I can find for basting. It's easy to be ambushed by cheap cotton-wrapped polyester, though. Check first!!

Barb

[Colin]

Being a beginner at sewing, the only issue I really had when doing an initial read through of the book was when certain types of stiches were referenced. I found the guide later, but not until I had skimmed throught the process. I have used the book to make a kilt for a one year old, but I think that I am going to do a beginners sewing class before I try the 13oz wool i have sitting around. I am using the prinicpals of the book for a kilt in plain grey wool for a neighbor. I have just started, but once I get the math sorted, it should go quicker. The only other issue I had at times was finding the list of needed materials. This was only because the fabric shop closest to my home wa slimited in it's resources. I couldn't find a good thimble that fit my fingers or thumb, so I had a bunch of little pin pricks last week.

Despite any issues I have experienced at this point as a total beginner, the book is very well set up for a beginner kiltmaker. There are several online guides on how to make an inexpensive version of a kilt, but these are usually lacking the charcteristics that are known with a kilt (ie. the fell, sew down pleats, tapering the apron, etc). The Art of Kiltmaking lays it out very neatly and walks you through the process. I had no idea how much effort had to go into making a traditional Scottish kilt. I would suggest the book to people that are even just considering buying a kilt, as it answers alot of the questions in terms of measurement, pleating (sett or stripe), and how a properly made kilt should look. I know the book was helpful in increasing my knowledge of the design and process of kiltmaking, which helped when I ordered my first handsewn kilt from Scotland.

I will comment further when I get further down the process. I have to get past a move (work and parent's home), my wife's birthday, halloween, and my birthday in the next 2 weeks.

[HeathBar]

If the thread unravelled and bunched as you pulled it through the fabric, you were using something called "Dual Duty" or cotton-wrapped polyester. It is a nightmare to use, because the cotton wears off the polyester core and makes little slubby bits that get caught in the fabric. Steer clear of it!!
Barb

I went back and checked and you're right it says right on the label, Dual Duty.
I guess at the time, I didn't know that much about the different types of thread.

[wsk]

Echoing others here: Stitching for Dummies. Basting, for example, is not listed in the current appendix.

As you know I'm in the process of reading the first edition - read the instructions first before switching on the power. So I've worked my way through pleat stitching and suddenly encounter joining the two halves of a double width tartan (page 82). How did I get here? Is there something that I missed? Did I just make pleats across the un-joined join? How did I do that? Are there special tricks and techniques to pleating across the join or is it obvious what one does when one gets to the last pleat of the left side / first pleat of the right?

If there are special tricks etc then, of course, they should be part of the second edition.

For details of the process: drawings. When an edge is depicted always label it - like a map or chart always has a compass rose. Even if preceding and succeding drawings have labeled the edge (first drawing following step 5 page 82).