Box pleated kilt vendors?

[way2fractious]

Kathy Lare of www.kathyskilts.com offers a military box pleat option.

...she took special training for at the Keith Kilt School and may be a tad different than other kiltmakers.

FYI -

The military box pleat is, indeed, an entirely different pleating style than a regular box pleat. The line drawing below gives an indication of the difference. A military box pleat kilt is essentially knife-pleated, with the knife-edge turned back to show the vertical stripe. It produces a heavy and totally awesome kilt. It also requires a lot more work than a regular box pleat or a standard knife edge pleat.

I have a kilt length of Weathered MacLaren and my intention is to build it into a military box pleat kilt sometime this year.

[cloves]

Fractious, did you draw that? It's the first time I've seen that many different types of pleating all in the same post. Thanks! I really appreciate being able to see them all at once.
If you add the Kinguisse and the reverse Kinguisse then I think it should be stickied.
Good work.

[way2fractious]

Fractious, did you draw that? It's the first time I've seen that many different types of pleating all in the same post. Thanks! I really appreciate being able to see them all at once.
If you add the Kinguisse and the reverse Kinguisse then I think it should be stickied.
Good work.

I must confess, I did not draw them. But I did lift the individual ones and put them into a single .jpg and relabeled them. The Kinguisses you mentioned are a combination, with knife pleats on each side and a box pleat in the center back. In fact, the inverted Kinguisse is what Utilikilts uses for their kilts.

As you can tell, this is way2fun!

w2f

[Riverkilt]

Thanks Bubba and Way2fractious,

That's what I was trying to point out but didn't know how to describe.

Is this a great board or what!!??

Ron

[sirdaniel1975]

Try These:


http://www.cuillinn.com/repro.html

http://www.angusharveykiltmaker.com/18thckilts.html

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I will say, my box-pleat was made by Matt Newsome. For quality and $ reasons. You just can't beat it. I will be after two more kilts from Matt in the future.

[Hamish]

You know, I am wondering if it is only kiltmakers based in the USA who will make box-pleated kilts? Perhaps it is because you lads over there go in for re-enactments and renn faires in such a big way (which we do not over here) that there is a demand for such a style.

In the past two or three years I have asked several Scottish exponents of the kiltmaking art if they tailor box-pleated kilts - and the answers have always been "No, sorry!" One actually told me that he is a kiltmaker, not an historical costume maker! I imagine it has something to do with the years of training and apprenticeship that they have to go through, and that they are given no experience of box pleating during that time. I am sure there must be one or two up there north of the border who would build box pleats if asked, but I know not of them.

Having written the above, I now see that our very own KiltStore.com in Edinburgh offer their Balmoral kilts knife or military box pleated. Sorry Nick and Adele!

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Hamish,

In my experience, you are 100% correct. I know of no major (or even minor!) UK-based kiltmaker that offers a traditional box pleated kilt. Most don't even know what it is.

Keep in mind, also, that until comparatively recently, a lot of Scottish kiltmakers never would have offered a 4 yard kilt of any variety. Most of them now offer some version of a "casual kilt" or a hill walker kilt that has about 4 yards (knife pleated), but this was not the case 15 or 20 years ago. In fact, as recently as three years ago I had one kiltmaker in Scotland call to try and get us to carry his products in our gift shop. I asked him if he made any form of 4 yard kilt and he told me that he was a kiltmaker and not interested in making lady's skirts!

Bob Martin taught me how to make box pleated kilts, and he's actually the one who brought this style back to life in 1983. As he describes it, it came about because he was looking for a way to convince people here in America that heavy weight wool makes the best kilts. People at that time (at least here in the American south) were convinced that the lighter kilt weights were not only less expensive but would keep them cooler in the warmer weather.

Bob lamented to Michael MacDonald (of the Scottish Tartans Society, and father of tartan weaver and designer Peter MacDonald), who suggested that Bob offer the old style box pleated kilt, made from four yards of cloth, from heavy kilt weight wool. MacDonald, as a kilt historian, knew full well about the four yard box pleated kilts from his research. Bob looked into the style (I couldn't tell you how many trips over to Scotland he has made in his kilt-making career, but he's been behind the scenes at just about every museum with an old kilt in it!). And in 1983, he started offering the box pleated kilt along with other more contemporary kilt styles.

The kilt he offered, and the kilt I offer, is not a peice of historical clothing meant for reenactment. (Though I can make you one like that, if you like). There are quite a few differences between a four yard box pleated kilt from 1794 and one as I make it today. As I explain on my web site, I do include a lot of modern features:
http://kilts.albanach.org/details.html

I use a lining, straps and buckles, tapered hips, etc. So this is just as much a kilt for contemporary formal and casual wear as a more standard eight yard knife pleated kilt is. And while a lot of people are interested in it as a more historic form of pleating, I would have to make it a bit differently for it to really be an historical re-creation.

But I find that most Scottish kilt makers still don't even know what box pleating is. If I recall correctly, Bob has regailed me with some tails of wearing a box pleated kilt over to Scotland only to be told that his pleats were not correct, they should be this or that way. And the ironic thing is that the original box pleated kilts are all housed in museums right there in Scotland, should anyone bother to take a look at them!

Bob has taught quite a few people how to make this style of kilt. Most of them, I would say, only learned to make kilts for their own personal pleasure. The only ones I know of that are doing it commercially are myself and Wanda McSwain. Wanda was actually trained by Bob to be his successor after he retired from kiltmaking. I beleive that most of the kilts she makes these days are 8 yard knife pleated kilts. She really is quite accomplished as a kiltmaker, and can do all styles of kilts (including the military box pleats mentioned earlier in the thread).

I, on the other hand, more or less specialize in the box pleated kilts. (Though I will make a completely hand-tailored knife pleated kilt from 5 yards of cloth if someone requests -- this is simply to provide a hand-tailored option to those who like the "casual kilts" most major kilt makers offer, but don't want machine stitching).

While I think it would be great if every major kilt maker began to offer traditional four yard box pleated kilts as a part of their line, I don't think it's going to happen any time soon. But that's ok by me. Part of the charm of the box pleated kilt is that they are somewhat out of the ordinary!

Aye,
Matt