Jim,
There is some debate on the actual nature of the early "little kilts." Some say they were hand-pleated and belted on like a full-width plaid each time. Others say that the pleats were stitched into place at the top. Or, it possibly had a drawstring. Your choice on which way to go, basically.

My `45 philabegs have loose, unpressed box pleats tacked into place with a few stitches at the waist band level, and are closed with buttons, and loops of fabric. My interpretation! I might try a drawstring style next.

As for N. America, highlanders quickly learned that their bare legs were not such a great idea in New World underbrush! Indian-style leggings or full-length gaiters were adopted for wear under the kilt....