Material comes "sideways" on cloth. Luckily for tartan and solids, it doesn't matter. Hpwever, if you want a pin stripe or a camo pattern, it's not ideal. If you want the pin stripe to go vertical, you have to cut and splice each kilt about 3 or 4 times (to make an 8 yarder). For Camo, not many people notice (and it's really is a pain in the butt), so most camo kiltmakers just make the kilt with the pattern sideways.