I'm inclined to agree with Raptor. As far as I know, pleated to the stripe is the general rule for a military kilt and pleated to the sett is more usual for a clan kilt, though there will be exceptions. When I was permitted to buy a Royal Air Force kilt from the RAF's official kiltmaker he said that he normally pleated them to the stripe for servicemen, but that as my father, rather than myself, had served in the force, he would pleat mine to the sett as a civilian kilt.