Desert Camo Casual Ver 0.2 alpha

[The Wizard of BC]

Your might also try backing off the tension on the hip strap. I seems to be too tight in the photos and causing the apron to pucker and the steeking line to be pulled in across your rear.

[ccga3359]

I do like the innovations that you've added. it look like a kilt a modern military could use.

[Perldog007]

Many thanks for the tech tips. We have a long way to go, but the journey is worth the ride.

By summers end I should have a proper kilt from a real kilt maker. So all can see the proper method of covering the common north american rumpus maximus.

Until then I will strive to improve.

[Pleater]

just a suggestion - seeing as you are obviously progressing in leaps and bounds with this kilt building - in the side view the kilt seems a tad tilted - that is down at the front and up at the back.

I'm afraid you really need to give yourself a bit more space in the rear - the kilt is seeking greater width and is following the line of least resistance by sliding upwards.

With a bit more space in the back the aprons will then swing forwards and make a smoother vertical line, and probably also give a better swing.

Are you tapering the apron/pleats edges? I make a taper which is 2 inches deep at the waist going to nothing at the hem, like a vertical dart though I dont always sew them down, just press them in. That tends to bring the centre front up for some reason - though you have to let the top edge of the fold for the taper drop down so it does not pull the edge of the fabric into a pleat.

The 2 inches seems to be just enough for me so the back and front of the kilt look level in wear.

I think the trick when fitting a kilt is to make it just small enough to sit right, rather than letting it out until you can just squeeze into it.

[Perldog007]

Are you tapering the apron/pleats edges? I make a taper which is 2 inches deep at the waist going to nothing at the hem, like a vertical dart though I dont always sew them down, just press them in. That tends to bring the centre front up for some reason - though you have to let the top edge of the fold for the taper drop down so it does not pull the edge of the fabric into a pleat.

The 2 inches seems to be just enough for me so the back and front of the kilt look level in wear.

I think the trick when fitting a kilt is to make it just small enough to sit right, rather than letting it out until you can just squeeze into it.

That sounds like a good way to go, not quite sure I have the clear mental picture (gets a bit cloudy in there...) Also the more room in the seat is a good idea too.

I have decided to try and make some corrections on this one before moving on the the next attempt. I am really itching to make one of hemp twill and webbing, but @ 16 USD/yard..... well for my purse strings that ain't time to be strictly playing.

I am going to read those Xmarks instructions again.... and thanks all for the help.

[Pleater]

The taper on the aprons is - I think fairly standard stuff - so you can probably find additional useful stuff like a diagram or a picture elsewhere.

I don't think you will be able to add in the taper very easily on an already done kilt - the 4 inches have got to come from somewhere.

If you were going to sew in the taper, you would measure your apron width, plus 2 inches and fold right side to right side at that point. Put in pins to hold the fold on a straight thread of the cloth - the straight grain, in sewing terms.

I then draw the sewing line, 2 inches from the fold at the waist, then gradually out to nothing at the hem. There might be some other way to do this other than a dead straight line, but a straight line works for me. You might need to consider how the buckles fit and dog leg the line to sew.

Sew along the line.

Turn the kilt right side out and press the edge carefully to get it flat. You have now 'lost' 4 inches of fabric at waist level so you really need to factor it in from the start, or in an already made kilt steal it from an under apron pleat if that is feasible.

There is a flare of 2 inches at the edge of the aprons, and the waist edges of the aprons are turned slightly uphill when worn, and the front of the kilt is very very slightly conical rather than swinging inwards from waist to knee.

[Perldog007]

The taper on the aprons is - I think fairly standard stuff - so you can probably find additional useful stuff like a diagram or a picture elsewhere.

ahhhhhh ...... I took the primitive route and just made the aprons trapezoid to make the difference between waist and seat....

Better have another look at those xmark instructions.