Hmmm...Well, I made the 1st and last pleats look just like all the rest, with the 1.25 depth on the apron side of each.
I can now see how adding some depth would make them hang a bit better.
My (mis)understanding of the "fold the underpleat back" gave me a double left edge to my apron pleat. It goes back, then forward, then back again.
BUT the beauty of all of this is that I can just rip it out and fix the thing. It did seem to me that the big underpleat was awfully deep, but adding some of that length to pleat #1 would take care of that.
My x-kilt is made from dark blue cotton twill, and will have pockets...though I haven't made the pockets yet.
I'm at the "add beltloops" phase, and yes, I will post some pics when I get this finished.
I'm making this for a week-long camping trip with my extended family. I can NOT wait to see the reactions I get.

Kent