Welcome! Maybe I can help, having made a few X-Kilts and having had the opportunity to show them off to the originator of the "pattern".
Originally Posted by Razbarry
.... I am just not understanding the direction of the first and last pleat or as Alan term them the 1st and last "forward-facing inner pleat. Can someone help me to visual this? Isn't this just a continuation of the underapron? is it like this _5.25_\--/_3_underapron or _5.25_\--/_3_\-----underapron. (Not really sure how to represent this.)
The inner pleat next to the underapron just lies underneath the last pleat (the full 3 inches goes under that box pleat and sort of doubles up with the half of the 5.25 inches of the next inner pleat), but technically you could just add this 3 inches to your allowance for the underapron, yes. The forward facing large pleat that lies underneath the apron can be quite large (and in fact, I would recommend making it very large, as this gives plenty of room for "opening up" when sitting down and keeps the apron from pulling the pleats out of alignment on the side). There is also another 3 inch inner pleat here which is not forward facing (just goes under the first pleat, similarly to the one next to the under apron)
Originally Posted by Razbarry
Also, when bar-tacking the pleats, do the 6-7 zig-zag stitches go along the fell line (across) or along the pleat line (up and down)?
Along the pleat line (up and down)
Originally Posted by Razbarry
I also came up with a measuring system for the marking the pleats. I cut a 3-in and 5.25 in piece of tempered hardboard as templates. This saved measuring these over and over. I just dropped marked, dropped and marked.
Razbarry
What a great idea! Why didn't I think of that?
I hope I was helpful, but if you want pictures, just check out these threads:
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