Really dumb question....

[James MacMillan]

Steve - You are a class act. I am continually amazed at the kindness and consideration shown by some members of X-Marks. Thank you.

If you are ever in the San Diego area, I would really like the privilege of buying you a beer, or a nice single malt!

I don’t know if you ever make the “Highland Games Circuit” but our modest local games are a two-day event held in June. They have not up-dated the web-site as of yet, but here it is: http://www.sdhighlandgames.org/index.htm. If you get out this way, please look me up!

This year, I will be at the Freemasons booth/tent in the clan area.

[James MacMillan]

Steve – I was going to PM you with my progress, and then thought it better to place my ramblings here to assist others who may have the idea to improve in-expensive kilts.

I had seen before your reference to offset sewing, but had not fully “grokked” (what a wonderful word that we gained from the late Robert Heinlein! – another thread, someday?) your meaning until I actually did it.

In my case it is lessened, as the kilt is fully pressed and the waistband is sewn, but it does come in to play. I followed your advice, and have just sewn in three pleats correctly, and only ripped out two.

I should emphasis again, that the small bit of effort, sewing up the fell, on an economical kilt, vastly improves the wearability, and hang. If one is not concerned with the reversible aspect, this can be done on a machine, in a very little time.

Choosing where to grab the pleat, to then sew it down, is definitely a combination of thread tension! You said this, but I didn’t understand, until I did it! I also am locking the stitches in about every fourth stitch. This should add to the durability and make the pleat more stable. I think I will also alter the style of basting that I use on the next kilt. I had just sewn across the entire pleating area in one long horizontal line. On the next kilt, I am going to baste in a sort of “X” pattern. It will look like a series of X’s across the pleats instead of one long line.

The pleats across the flat area of my rump have no taper, but I am putting in a small amount of additional taper at the three or four side pleats. This improves the hang.

Again, thanks for your advice and assistance.

Oh, one other thing – I experimented with sewing directions, and it seems to work better sewing from the waistband down to the stop point, (steeking line) which turned out to be a line in the tartan. When I used the other direction, (up) I had to continually adjust the pattern in the tartan, to keep it aligned. When I sewed from the waistband down, this didn’t happen. It goes pretty fast too. One hour of hand sewing or twenty minutes of machine sewing should be all that is required for each kilt.

I hope Barb’s book comes out of printing soon, as I really want to read it.

And speaking of books – Where is yours??

Thanks again for your help!

[Canuck]

Another tip.
Tailors thread is wonderful to work with. It is precut into manageable lengths. The bonus is that it is waxed, making it easier to sew with, less likely to tangle.

[James MacMillan]

Another tip.
Tailors thread is wonderful to work with. It is precut into manageable lengths. The bonus is that it is waxed, making it easier to sew with, less likely to tangle.

And of course, I read this AFTER going to the local fabric store for the right color of thread to continue!!!!

[Pleater]

If you have a household candle, or a fancy one for intimate dinners, just take a hot knife and slice off a small chunk - an inch is all it takes, then when you have threaded your needle just trap the threads, near the needle, under the wax and pull. It is best to do this on a craft (not polished) table or spare bit of wood/anything hard - not the best furniture!! Not your thumb either as the friction will eventually make it hurt.

Only use the length of thread you neeed for each seam, plus a couple of inches so you can tie it off easily. That means minimum effort for you/minimum wear on the fabric - both significant when doing a kilt.

I really must try a box pleated kilt one of these days - once I have worked my way through the heap of kilts in waiting.

Put it on the list.

[James MacMillan]

If you have a household candle, or a fancy one for intimate dinners, just take a hot knife and slice off a small chunk - an inch is all it takes, then when you have threaded your needle just trap the threads, near the needle, under the wax and pull. It is best to do this on a craft (not polished) table or spare bit of wood/anything hard - not the best furniture!! Not your thumb either as the friction will eventually make it hurt.

Only use the length of thread you neeed for each seam, plus a couple of inches so you can tie it off easily. That means minimum effort for you/minimum wear on the fabric - both significant when doing a kilt.

I really must try a box pleated kilt one of these days - once I have worked my way through the heap of kilts in waiting.

Put it on the list.

Another great use for a household candle is to unfold your kilt, and gently rub the point of a hunk of candle in the inside of a pleat. Then iron the kilt. The pleats will stay sharp for much longer! - and no damage to the fabric!

This is not my original idea! Servicemen and women of every branch have been doing this for as long as there have been uniforms. The creases last forever.

--And it works for kilts also!

[cacunn]

Another great use for a household candle is to unfold . . .

I have always found that the best (cheapest) candles for uses like this are found in the grocery store. In the Kosher food sections are Jewish sabath candles. They are very inexpensive compared to "household candles" You can take two and run the thread between them. Itwist the candles slightly so the tread does a lazy figure "s" between the candles. Waxes bothe sides and doesn't hurt the table.

Once the thread has cut the candles in to small pieces, melt then down, remove the wicks and pour into cup cake papers. Once cool reuse to wax thread.