OK, I'll say what I do. I'm not sure if it's "right" or not, just that it works.

First:
I take a chalk/marking pencil (the white thing available in fabric stores). I measure and DRAW the lines for each and every side of the pleat, one pleat stitch at a time.
I then start and make an "anchor stitch" about 1 inch or so from the bottom of the fell. I sew DOWN to the bottom of the fell (using WIDE stitches). I then go up with small stitches, all the way to the top of the fell. Then I go parallel to the tartan lines all the way up the rise. I use the lines in the tartan as "adjustment" points for the thread and needle to be aligned ALL the way up the fell.
The darting is done on BOTH sides of the stitch, every pleat seam.

Basically, it is the same as Barb's book (as best as I can remember-> someone is borrowing my copy). The MAIN differences are that the "veeing" of the dart is much more severe (less seams/pleats to make the adjustments between hips and waist) and the fabric inside the pleat is laid out as a box, rather than off to one side. The key in getting THAT to work is to have the front and back faces being the SAME and the transitions between them being 1/2 the facing (so, 1/3 of the sett is the front face, 1/3 is the rear face, and 1/3 is the between parts -1/6 each side).

Make sense? I am probably using all the wrong terminology.