What makes a kiltmaker professional?

[turpin]

A very nice kilt, I would say that, that qualifies as a professional job. I especially like the chosen tartan Gordon is my clan, eventually I will have a tank in that tartan I was wavering between knife and box pleats but not any more.

I think the weight of the cloth helps a lot in showing off John's work. Once you get a good crease in it it just hangs straight and holds and holds. This is probably why Matt Newsome recommends 16 oz. cloth or higher for a box pleat. Yet, because it uses only 2 yards double-wide, it is very light-feeling when hefted or worn.

Hey, John's kilt looks good on you!

Hey! It's my kilt!

About the rise, I think if you measure from the bottom of the leather strap, you'll find that the weathered Gordon I made for you does have a 2" rise, or very close to it. You are probably measuring from the center of the straps (on the holes).

I know some kiltmakers measure the rise from the holes, but I was taught to do so from the bottom of the strap. Not sure of the difference, but there ya go!

Matt

Yes, the 8 yard tanks I have had made for me (one by Barb T, one by Kiltstore) both have 2 inch rises measured from the center of the top buckle. I guess it's important, then when submitting measurements to the kiltmaker, to understand his/her definition of length of rise versus drop.

Now Mr. Wages, no false modesty, please. You do good work!

[MacWage]

I
Now Mr. Wages, no false modesty, please. You do good work!

I'm just glad you are HAPPY.

Now, that one is a bit of a hybrid. I have looked at Barb's book and took some from that, some from CONVERSATIONS with Matt (not direct teaching nor instruction), and some practical "trial and error." When looking at your weathered Gordon, I saw some things Matt does different than I have seen.

I know every small thing on there, so a kiltmaker is probably their OWN worst critic (I can see a couple in the shots).
The steek that "popped" through (I didn't realize THAT until the sun of Hartwell- was black thread on DARK tartan) is probably not really needed. On several of my own kilts, that one is not there (never bothered to do it, though intended), so it probably isn't really needed (as the lining really isn't either, as it is just cotton sewn on top of the wool). You should be able to just snip it or use a seam ripper and NEVER miss it.

Now, before anyone asks, I am NOT planning on taking orders for a while longer. I want to try something first and understand something else (which is why Turpin's kilt is a tad "small"- unintentionally).


As for the rise, The "waist band" (girdle as you called it) is 2 inches, which I used for the rise. The straps and buckles are in/on that waistband, which I used as a "sleeve." That must be different than what Matt and Barb do, so I'll have to get my copy of Barb's book back and see what it says.
(I am still relatively "new" at this and each kilt is better than the last, noticeably to me. Turpin's was the 9th TOTAL I tried.)