If I may interject a couple of helpful ideas.

I attempted to make our Kilt-Cut Sport Coat from the Simplicity pattern and it was a disaster. Then I met the lady who currently makes our jackets. Just watching her has been a lesson in the art.
See if you have a really good tailor in your area. Preferably one who does work on military uniforms. Offer to pay him to sit and watch. Most real craftsmen don't mind teaching and passing on the skills. Just make sure you let him know that there is no way you will become his competition.

Then, find a good male tailors form.

Practice and learn to baste and hand stitch really well. Learn how to use a thimble correctly. The ring style. Practice till you can make 100 stitches that are exactly uniform in stitch length, spacing and invisible.

The structure of a jacket does not come from the fabric but from the interfacing. learn how to use sew-in interfacing.

Oh yea, as to what style of jacket you make. It doesn't matter. learn to make a good quality, well fitting jacket first. Then you can do anything.

The old cutters guide referenced above is a wonderful resource. Especially the chapter of fitting men of unusual body types. It talks specifically about how to adjust a two dimensional piece of paper till it will fit a three dimensional shape.

Buy an entire bolt of inexpensive Muslin. This is what you use instead of paper for your patterns. Draw on it with blue chalk. Cut and sew it together and then mark it with red chalk for the adjustments. Re-cut and re-sew till it fits. Then disassemble it and use that as your pattern to lay-out your real fabric.

Plan on making three or four muslin jackets and throwing them away. The more you make the better your finished work will look.

Never, never, buy your jacket fabric from your local fabric store.

The lining is in most cases more important to the drape of the jacket than the outside fabric. The lining is there to allow the outside structure to move and drape properly. Get good Bemburg lining fabrics. It's the lining that fits your body and the interfacing that gives the shape. The outside fabric floats on those two. Never skimp on the lining.

Buy four or five good hams. Of different shapes and sizes. Buy a clapper. Then get the best industrial iron you can find. The one with the separate tank for the water. Having these in my shop has made all the difference in the world in my shop. On Kilts and jackets. The sole plate does not get as hot as in a normal household iron because it is not needed to produce the steam. It is the heat from the steam and the pressure from your arm that does the work, not the stroking from the iron itself.

Good luck guys. I know you can do it. If you have specific questions I'll pass them on to my jacket lady and hopefully she will be able to help.