The resurgance of the Box-Pleat Kilt, and X-Marks

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Wow, it's good to see this thread. You know, the box pleated kilt was first revivied by Bob Martin in 1983. It had previously gone out of fashion around the mid 1800s and modern kiltmakers had more or less forgotten about it. You said "box pleat" to a professionally trained Scottish kiltmaker and they would assume you meant a military style as worn by certain regiments (Seaforth, A&S, etc.).

Bob began making them after talking with Micheil MacDonald, then of the Scottish Tartans Society in Scotland. He was having a conversation about how to convince people in America that heavy weight cloth is really the best cloth for the kilt. People tended to want the lighter weights because it was "cooler." Micheil, who knew a thing or two about the history of the kilt, suggested to Bob that he offer four yard box pleated kilts from heavy weight wool.

Like I said, that was in 1983 and Bob has made quite a few of them in his career. But they remained rather rare. Bob is one man, and he made his kilts as an individual. He was (is) well known among Scottish-American circles, but he didn't have a shop, no web site, etc. So his business was largely word of mouth.

When I learned to make box pelated kilts (from Bob) a few years ago, I decided to offer them both on the internet and as a kilt option through the Scottish Tartans Museum gift shop. To be perfectly honest, I anticipated maybe getting an order for one once a month or so. My way of thinking was that it was an unusual historic style and most people would continue to want the more typical knife pleated kilt. Boy was I wrong. I've now done well over 200 kilts, the great majority of which have been box pleated. And through participation on this forum I think the awareness of this style has really spread. I have sent kilts to England, Scotland, Canada, Australia, and of course all across the United States.

Of the kilts we offer through the Scottish Tartans Museum gift shop, I'd say about half that we sell these days are box pleated kilts. Why do people choose this style? In some cases it is the money -- half the cloth equals less cost. In some cases it is the comfort factor -- the four yard kilt is lighter and more balances, even when you use the heavy weight cloth, which is hands down the best quality. In a lot of cases it just simply is a matter of taste and preference. Most folks walk into the shop to buy a kilt unaware that there are different pleating styles to choose from. They see examples of both, and pick either the box or knife pleat depending on what they like the looks of. And, like I said, about half choose the box pleat.

The box pleated four yard kilt is truer to the kilt's roots as an everyday garment of the people. I, personally, am encouraged by the increased recognition of this style as a legitimate form of the traditional kilt.

Thanks, guys!
Matt

[Howard Clark]

I'm a believer Matt. I do not, as yet, own a "tank", which at some point I may decide to do, but at the moment, frankly I doubt it. I find the four yards of cloth ever so much more blanced than the "8 yard" knife pleated kilt I do own (which is one of only two synthetic fabric kilts I own), and it is but 13 oz cloth.

I was influenced in my initial decision to try your four yard box pleated design by the history lessons on your web site, and my dislike of the posterior heavy knife pleated kilt I already had.

Plus I like buying hand made stuff from individual humans that did the work.

[Alan H]

This past September I was wandering around the vendors booths at the Pleasanton Highland Games, and lo and behold, there was a Weathered Armstrong tartan box-pleated kilt. It was ruddy gorgeous so I walked right over and introduced myself. The guy had purchased the kilt from Matt! He dropped by the MacNaughton tent and met the NorCal rabble, and even joined X-Marks, though I haven't seen him post recently.

But there you go...random sighting of Matt Newsome-made kilt, here in California. The word gets around.

I made my first tartan box-pleat out of California, modern colors 16 ounce tartan last January and I love that kilt. It's substantial. There's nothing like top-quality worsted wool! It's warm, but not a sweatbox. I really like it, in fact I wore it on Monday, to work. There will be 2 yards of Hall tartan on my "wish list" for Christmas this year, and if that shows up under the tree, I will make myself a box pleat Hall tartan kilt.

But without X-Marks......

[Tartan Hiker]

How cool is this? We're at the forefront of an international movement!

Seriously...for all the new folks not fully versed in the history of the box-pleated kilt that is being discussed in this thread, check out Matt's links, which I've pasted below. I'm a firm believer in knowing your facts before opening your mouth, and walking out and about in a box-pleat will create some questions that you need to be able to answer from a position of authority. The information in Matt's articles will quickly answer any potential questions you may receive.
Go forth and Educate!



Matthew A. C. Newsome, FSA Scot
Member, Guild of Tartan Scholars
Curator, Scottish Tartans Museum
Maker of 4-yard box pleated kilts
Homepage: http://albanach.org
Blog: http://blog.albanach.org

[Freedomlover]

How cool is this? We're at the forefront of an international movement!

Seriously...for all the new folks not fully versed in the history of the box-pleated kilt that is being discussed in this thread, check out Matt's links, which I've pasted below. I'm a firm believer in knowing your facts before opening your mouth, and walking out and about in a box-pleat will create some questions that you need to be able to answer from a position of authority. The information in Matt's articles will quickly answer any potential questions you may receive.
Go forth and Educate!

Exactly. Or has someone else said a couple of millenia ago: "Be always prepared to give an answer (or defense) to those who question".

[M. A. C. Newsome]

This past September I was wandering around the vendors booths at the Pleasanton Highland Games, and lo and behold, there was a Weathered Armstrong tartan box-pleated kilt. It was ruddy gorgeous so I walked right over and introduced myself. The guy had purchased the kilt from Matt! He dropped by the MacNaughton tent and met the NorCal rabble, and even joined X-Marks, though I haven't seen him post recently.

Interesting.... I've never made a weathered Armstrong kilt. Could you maybe be remembering the tartan wrong? I'm trying to think who that might be.

[Monkey@Arms]

Interesting.... I've never made a weathered Armstrong kilt. Could you maybe be remembering the tartan wrong? I'm trying to think who that might be.

I believe he meant the Weathered Anderson discussed here.


(photo credit Panache)

Best regards,

Jake

[way2fractious]

* post deleted *

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Oh yeah, I remember that thread. Weathered Anderson. Yup, that kilt was made by my hands. :-)

[Daaaaang]

The internet has an established sense of informality, so it is hard to think of XMarks as a truly respectable society, but that is pretty much what it is. I would bet that it is one of the largest societies ever dedicated to the kilt, if not the largest. Plus it is completely inclusive to anybody who wants to join.

So yeah, we're making history. Maybe XMarks should publish a book or something. "The XMarks Consensus: What is a kilt and how do you wear it?"

Matt!