Creating new patterns for kilt jackets

[AtagahiKC]

Thanks, Steve. I appreciate your input and experience in this matter.

Sorry that I've been absent. I've had a cold, but have been reviewing the various texts that I've purchased on measurements and how they relate to drafting the pattern pieces.

Although I agree that it would be easier to alter a pattern, I want to try to work on how to create the pattern pieces from scratch so I understand the mechanics of how the pattern should be adjusted. I tend to be a little methodical in these things to make sure my brain gets around the entire issue.

I've also purchased a program called Poser to allow us to create a model for show where to measure, etc.

It will take a few weeks to develop a working diagram and measurement form from the books. I will try to post a few intermittent pictures and discussions.

Feel free to challenge what I'm including for measurements. That will be the value of doing this as a group. We can collectively arrive at what is needed.

By private message, I've asked Barb T. specifically about the measurement from the waist to the hip-at-the-widest-point, or fell, measurement (Distance from W to F).

From her book and general discussions, I don't think that this is normally taken as a measurement for a kilt, but I know it is one of the problems I have with jackets and kilts in getting a fell to fall where it should.

I'll post her answer when I get it. I want to try to sync measurements and terms that are helpful for a kilt to the measurements that are taken for the jacket, as much as possible. That way, one doesn't have to take two sets of measurements for the two clothing items.

I will also use the names used in tailoring (as gleaned from the books) to avoid confusion as people use the references. The duplicity of names may be a little confusing, but I'll try to make it clear as possible.

I believe we will need this measurement specifically because for either an Argyle or Prince Charlie, we need that measurement to know how long the tail or skirt of the jacket should be in order to fit properly.

I've also reviewed a lot of pictures and it seems to me that the tail or skirt falling to the fell line is exactly where the kilt jacket is supposed to end.

If anyone has a contrary opinion on this, please let us know. Otherwise, I'm going to proceed to include this measurement as something we need to gather for the project.

[AtagahiKC]

Here are some links that you might find helpful.

1. Tailoring Equipment or Supplies:

Patterns to make your own tailoring tools This is mainly how to make hams and pressing items, including an arm board.

National Hanger Company - Tailor Supplies

B.Black and Sons This site has all the tailoring supplies and equipment you might need, including the elusive jacket fronts and pre-made padding that will shortcut the tailoring process. The usefulness of the jacket fronts or kits remain to be seen for this project, but if you decide to make a normal sport coat or suit, these would be helpful.

Stan's Sewing Supplies This site has quite a few notions and things that might also be of use. They specialize in zippers, which won't be of use in this project, but the leather they sell, might, if you want to make a leather jacket.

Albert Zoll This site also has tailoring supplies (including jacket fronts, etc.), but also includes pattern-making tools.

2. Dress/Tailor Forms

I've not been as successful in locating a tailor dummy supplier with a reasonably priced dummy that is as adjustable as would be needed. The point of the project is to create a coat for those of us who are hard to fit. There don't seem to be forms made in anything but normal sizes and most do not allow for even foreseeable adjustments, such as shoulder position, which would be vital to creating a good fitting jacket.

Therefore, I'm proposing that we create our own. This site explains how to make one out of duct tape. I also saw another site that sells a tape on how to create one out of paper tape which would allow for pins to be put into it. It would be the same basic method, so I'm just including the duct tape site for your reference. You can use either type of tape you think will work best for you.

How to make a custom tailor form Note that this is showing a woman, but the process is the same to make one for a man. You'll need a partner in crime to do it, some duct or paper tape, and some patience.

If you want a professional tailor form, let me know and I'll send you the links. Be forewarned, they cost thousands of dollars and are limited to one size. There are cheaper ones, of course, for normal sizes. There was one made in England that was adjustable, but by the time one imported it, it would be expensive, too. I don't think it went up to larger sizes, either.

We won't need most of this for a few months, but we will need the pattern making tools and measuring tapes soon. Good luck!