Sewn-in box pleats

[BarefootScott]

Ah, I assumed you were a kiltmaker.

Nope, just amateur DIYer here.

In a Contemporary, machine sewn Kilt the steeking will show up as a line of stitches at the bottom of the Fell.

This would be a line of stitches horizontally across the pleats? Because I used 13oz. cotton on my last three kilts (all knife pleated), I didn't cut the pleats out above the fell, as is usually done with heavier fabrics. The pleats provided stiffness to the waist that (as I understand) is usually added back in later with some sort of strip in the belt area (?).